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Old 10-04-2011, 04:30 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 121
Unhappy of course I get to change the 1 timing chain guide rail that 'never breaks'

1992 400SE M119.971

Engine Dies After Cold Start on Accel./Decel.
TSB: DDAF05_20-U-6400FA
Date:01/27/1999

After much research into a dying engine, I pulled the valve covers to examine the Variable Valve Timing Actuators on the right & left intake camshafts. By cranking the engine by hand at the crankshaft nut strange clicking noises were coming from the right intake camshaft timing actuator as it spun.

It was the signs that an indy told me were associated to a failing/failed timing actuator where it does not return to Retard Position quickly enough, thus essentially stalling the engine.

I set the crank to 45 BTDC and went to lock the 4 camshafts. To my surprise I was only able to lock with the pins the Right Intake & Exhaust Camshafts & Left Intake Camshaft. The LEFT EXHAUST Camshaft is off as if it had jumped back a tooth or two (opposite of engine rotation). SEE ATTACHED PIC.

I began examining the timing chain guide rails and found all intact (the top two between the camshafts came off without braking #6 & #16 in attached PDF). Further down I found the guide rail in the left/drivers side lower part of the block slightly snapped near the top end (#29 in attached PDF).

The 3 camshafts locked in at approx. 38 degrees, which indicates 7 degrees of stretch.

I’m looking for some opinions on how to proceed. The guide rail that’s broken requires the front timing cover to be removed

I couldn’t snap a good picture showing the broken end, but it is a very small chip off the top end. How is it that the left exhaust camshaft sprocket jumped like that? The tension is very tights on the chain.

Should I just reset the left exhaust camshaft so it locks with the pin and change the timing actuators which I have from a parts cars?

Attached Thumbnails
of course I get to change the 1 timing chain guide rail that 'never breaks'-left-exhaust.jpg   of course I get to change the 1 timing chain guide rail that 'never breaks'-left-intake.jpg   of course I get to change the 1 timing chain guide rail that 'never breaks'-right-intake.jpg   of course I get to change the 1 timing chain guide rail that 'never breaks'-right-exhaust.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf M119.971.pdf (78.7 KB, 192 views)
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  #2  
Old 10-04-2011, 08:36 AM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tucker, Ga USA
Posts: 12,153
Before doing anything! replace the chain & upper rails, also the guides between each of the cams!

If the chain jumps more than 2 teeth...the valves will be JUNK, and that is a 20+ hour job with $$$ in parts.
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  #3  
Old 10-04-2011, 01:33 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 121
Should the guide rail in the left/drivers side block #29 be replaced?

Since I would need to remove the front timing cover for that job I would also change the tensioner guide rail. If I proceed this route, should I change the timing chain with timing cover off instead of feeding it through?

It appears the lower pan needs to be removed for that job and as such I would more than likely also change while in there:
-oil chain
-oil chain guide rail
-oil pressure relief valve

Any input to confirm or deny?

Thanks

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