The over tightening is not consequential. I've been using anti-sieze for ever on my cars and on my customers cars without any issues. And the wheel fasteners always come off without drama.

Yep...and the same holds true for those that use grease or oil, too. I was going to mention that, but wanted to first see if I could find the graph/chart that is somewhere on the web (maybe at BW?) listing approximations for the reduction in torque when lubricants are used.

Unfortunately, every solution often results in a new issue.

It is true that lube on threads will cause greater tightening at a given torque value, but in the case of lug bolts the portion of the bolt that contacts the wheel is likely where the majority of the torque is generated, as the diameter of this wheel contact area is greater than that of the threads. If the anti-seize is limited to the threads there should not be a significant difference in the tightening, in my opinion. The elimination of rust between the hub and lug bolt threads would likely solve most of the frozen and broken lug bolts. The same applies to lug nuts on other cars. I have been using anti-seize on lugs as long as I can remember with zero frozen lugs.

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'97 E 300 D

Is Argument for argument's sake an Entertainment or an Affliction?

NOT using Antisieze on the "Spherical Collar" portion of the Lug Bolt is pretty much guaranteed to cause problems for all youse in the SALT/RUST Belt.

And If I were unlucky enough to operate in regions where the roads are salted,I could SURE find out if there was even a necessary reduction in Torque,due to lubing the threads.(And what it was)

As Always:

Your Mercedes ,your pleasure.

Equine,H2O,Drinkie? Nein.

YMMV

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

An alternative is to loosen and re-torque the lug bolts at regular intervals. More often in conditions where there is a lot of precipitation or salt is used on the roads.

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Good luck.






1998 E320 Wagon