W126 Engine mounts, old vs. new picture

[Q]

Thought I would share with everyone the picture of my old mounts next to a new one. The mounts were taken from a 1985 380SE and are the originals (mount in center is new one). The damaged one on the left was the result of power steering fluid (actually ATF per the incorrect owners manual suggestion) leaking onto the mount and turning the rubber into a gel type substance. The rubber's new elastic properties are not unlike silicone. It is VERY bizzare!

[Q]

I found Thomaspin's web site very helpful in eliminating any fear in replacing the bushings. The inner 6 mm hex bolts are kind of a pain to get out. I found the best way to get them out and in was with an allen wrench from underneath. Plenty of room, but you are working blind. The only other issue was lining the mounts up with the flanges on the engine. Just takes a bit of muscle and a carefully placed pry bar to get it lined up.

In Thomaspin's pictoral, he shows where to disconnect the throttle linkage. I found a better place was the ball joint against the firewall. A 7 mm open end wrench fit right between the socket and arm and allowed for a gentle pop of the joint. I was able to pop it back together with finger pressure too.

The difference in my approach versus his was he was smarter. I left the air box in place and my already cracked snorkle gave up the ghost! I made sure to unclip the fan shroud prior to jacking the engine up. Prior to lowering the engine, I fully extended the engine shocks and got the shaft into the hole so as not to wreck them.

The difference in the new mounts is utterly amazing. The engine is quieter and the shifts are smoother. The feeling is much more refined. You don't know what you are missing until you replace them. For those of you who have been putting it off, DON'T! It is definetly a DIY.

Tools required:
6 mm hex socket
6 mm allen wrench
8 mm hex socket
swivel (u-joint) socket
Locktite
7 mm open end wrench (to hold engine shock shaft)
10 mm socket (for engine shock nuts)
vise-grips (to gently hold shocks while you tighten nuts from above)
12" socket extension (for reaching 8 mm bolts through chasis)
20" socket extension (not necessary, but made life SO EASY)
floor jack with wooden block
jack stands

[Firewater]

Speaking of giving up the ghost... this thread is NOT! ARISE!

What brand motor mounts did you go with? (that is if YOU didn't give up the ghost and can reply)

[JamesDean]

Coreteco's are usually pretty decent I think. Stay away from URO--they're $8/each...that can't be good. I dont think many people have had much luck with them on most "important" parts.

Mercedes wants $96/each for original stuff on XXX

Part Number: 1232413013 for most 116/117/617 on 126.

[Firewater]

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Coreteco's are usually pretty decent I think. Stay away from URO--they're $8/each...that can't be good. I dont think many people have had much luck with them on most "important" parts.

Mercedes wants $96/each for original stuff on XXXX

Part Number: 1232413013 for most 116/117/617 on 126.

yeesh. What bout Meyle from ********az? I'm about to also buy an URO fan clutch since mine failed and my engine tickled 120*C today...

[JamesDean]

What car/engine are we talking about?

I've never used Meyle mounts, I've only replaced the ones on my SD. I used Coreteco mounts.

Fan clutches people usually buy Meyle or Behr. I've gotten both in the past and dont have any complaints. Unless we're talking electromagnetic clutches..

[Clemson88]

I put Meyle on my 300SD about five years ago. They are doing fine but the should be, I keep the fuel and oil off them.

I think even the original mounts would soon fail if installed without shields which protect them from leaks.

$96 for engine mounts? If they were bullet proof maybe.

[Hit Man X]

I had a Meyle HD crap out on my 300SEL in a few days. Yes, a few days. My lame URO brand is holding up better.