From the pics it seems as though the rear left has a SS braided hose and the right has a standard rubber hose. At least that's how it appears. Could this be an issue? From my understanding they're not supposed to be mixed.

__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

A few years ago I thought my issue might have been brake hoses so I went about replacing all my SS lines with rubber but I couldnt get that rear right one off. I didnt want to round the nut so i threw in the towel and said I'd toss it to the shop...never did get around to that. I dont think them being mixed would cause too huge of an issue though. It didn't before the rotor/pad change

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Yes, I also think that's a red herring, but it's a good sign people are looking closely at the pictures.

James, I think Larry made a good point when he asked if the pedal was mushy when you're stopped. If it is good and hard when you are stopped, then there isn't any air in the system and since you noted you hadn't opened it, there's no way it could have gotten in anyway. There are some instances where pushing all of the old, degraded fluid backward through the lines causes problems, but hopefully that's not what you're facing (and those problems are not usually "mushy" anyway).

So if the pedal feels fine if you are stopped, but just seems to require extra time/pressure/travel from speed, and there is no pulling or grabbing, I would bet the brakes just haven't fully bedded-in. The process you described wasn't any I've seen (or used) before and with the harder Akebono pads it is going to take longer anyway.

I would go ahead and flush the fluid, and then I'd try a drive or two across town where you actually get to use the brakes with some regularity.

Good luck.

Interesting as the SS hoses (by the little yellow band around the rear left I might assume it's a Goodridge G-Stop hose which is considered the best) are definitely not supposed to cause a spongy pedal. I just bought a set and the box states to not mix the two types.
Rubber hoses flex under pressure whereas the SS ones do not, leading to a firmer pedal feel.

Just yesterday I was going to replace the rear rotors & pads and install all new SS hoses. It was 98°F outside, bugs were having me for dinner, and I just couldn't get that first rotor off of the hub. It's on there and I do mean good. I tried to then undo the top fitting for the brake hoses by using a modified box end(the line wrench set I bought curiously lacked an 11mm) and it slipped on the hex. It slightly marred the nut but not enough to ruin it. I took all that as a sign I should put it back together and take it to a shop. I hate it when that happens. Bought a Motive bleeder and everything.

Another thing I've noticed about your setup is the rear rotor seem to be vented, and these cars have solid rotors stock. How does that work? Seems like the vented rotors would be too thick for the calipers.

__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

My rear brakes are SL600's, fronts are E420.

I did manage to tear into that rear passenger rotor today and found that my spring clip was rubbing up against the rotor so I think that was the source of my noise..but I did take the pads out and put some anti-squeal paste on them and drove around town.

The pedal seems better but still not quite as firm as I would like but I think the pads are still bedding-in.

I just managed to beat the rain with working on those pads. I didn't want to challenge the gods of rain any further by attempting to bleed the whole system.

__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

Akebono brake pads are the worst ones I have ever installed. Get rid of them and get some Textars. May fix 50% of your problem because they won't stop your car (and I know what a mushy brake pedal feels like)! If you do your flush and still have the same issue...I guarantee it's your pads. I have a 300E 3.0 and put in new rotors (not even cross cut like yours!) and Akebonos...felt like I was leg pressing 3000 lbs when I tried to stop and pedal felt mushy (because there was no bite). Ordered some Textars, threw them in, drove about 20 miles and bam! Barely have to step on the brakes to stop the car now. Have never bled my brake lines.

Thats sad to here. Here I always thought Akebono's were generally well regarded. I kept my Axxis ULT pads and I believe I have a set of Textars (slightly used) in a box here somewhere. I keep too much stuff....

And to rebe, yes, eventually I will flush the brakes out. Probably this coming Friday or that weekend.

I've got the new W124 to deal with as well. Its brakes are nice and smooth though, no issues there.

__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k