If you do a search on the EPC for 000 074 60 86, it shows as the fitting where the FD connects to the WUR. Item 717 on the attached, so it will be interesting to see what you get.

Good news on the tank strainer - you dodged a big bullet there.

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__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

Chuck can you attach the description list of each item....please?

Chuck, after looking at the parts diagram....it doesnt show the fuel strainer? The steel threaded fitting recieved was probably correct other than it didnt have the pressed in strainer?

In the event that a strainer cannot be obtained, a second filter could be added at the inlet to the FD. A search of catalogs (Fram, AC, wix, etc.) may reveal filters with threaded fittings in metric sizes that are small enough to fit into the space available.

Local MB dealer did not even bother to have p/n 000 074 60 86 delivered and told me that they were told it did not have the strainer. Called Larry back and he purchases from Brinson Co Louisiana. Called them and they confirmed that they have the parts. It is now a brass fitting but it has the strainer. Waiting to recieve. Once recieved will take image and post it. Also have new fuel pump, 14mm ID fuel hose, new pump to filter hose, and new checkvalve nut on order. Will advise status as I put it back together.

Received p/n 000 074 60 86 from The Brinson Co, Louisiana. It is indeed the inlet strainer with the strainer......brandy new. Exciting. The new fuel pump and fuel filter are installed. Will install new fuel distributor inlet strainer tonight....add gas and report in.

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well....disappointing results.....no difference...car starts, runs for a 20 seconds low idle and stall. I guess I should check the fuel accumulator. Can this fail so badly that the car doesnt run? I read somewhere that the fuel will just bypass to the fuel tank. Pressure is building in the fuel tank...dont know if it is excessive. At this point I have clean tank, fuel strainer, new pump, new filter, new fuel inlet strainer. Will check fuel accumulator and a flow check.

Back to basics:

1. Are you totally sure that the pump is running even when the engine stops? Can you jumper the relay or otherwise make sure that it has continuous power and keeps running?

2. My other suspicion is control pressure. The engine gets enough fuel from the cold start valve to run and maybe stone cold has low enough control pressure to get fuel, but as it warms up the control pressure goes up to the point where the flap/lever can't move the plunger. Or maybe the plunger is sticking. With a stone cold engine and the electrical to the WUR disconnected, can you move the sensor plate with the slightest touch? Now connect the electrical. Does the plate get harder to move?

3. While the engine is running, can you keep it going by pushing the air sensor plate down slightly? Use a stick because it may backfire (don't ask me how I know).

4. Is the return line clear? Can you blow air through it and hear gurgling in the tank?

5. Is your tank venting working? Have you tried loosening the cap?

__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

I hooked a voltmeter up to the fuel pump and verified 12V during start and in run position for the short amount of time that the car runs. I disconnected the connector from the wur and tried the car. I thought it seemed to run for another 5s -10s.

The air flap check is with the fuel pump running? Key in run position. When I check air flap for movement fuel will be dispensed? You are looking to see if you can feel the extra 20psi applied on the control piston.
I would not say that the flap moves with the slightest touch. It seems like you have to apply some pressure to get it to open.

When the car runs forcing the air flap open a little bit does nothing. Car just stalls.

With fuel pump running I can hear liquid coming back to the tank.

A while back I had a pressure gauge on it...before and after removing and dissassembling/cleaning the wur. I measured something like 25 then 50. Didnt time it. System pressure was over 70psi with the old fuel pump. I will reinstall the pressure gauge and recheck.

I have realized that some pressure does build up in the tank and I have tried it w/o the cap on.

i turned the key to run...disconnected safety switch(fuel pump was running) it took 15ozs to get the plate to just start to crack. Thats a deep 3/4" impact socket (1/2" drive) and a shallow 15/16" non impact (1/2" drive) socket.

went out this morning.....residual pressure should have dropped off to nothing. I observed the air flap to have much less resistance.....I was able to get it to open with one shallow 1/2" drive socket. It was quite a bit of difference from last night checking it with cold control pressure on it.

That's way too much pressure. With the fuel pump running, the plate should move easily. You should be able to touch it with your finger and watch it move. All that makes it move is the vacuum created underneath it when the throttle valve is opened.

With the fuel pump running, what happens if you open one of the injection line fittings on the top of the FD? You should see some fuel run out.

__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

As suggested by Chuck, time to recheck control pressure.
Cold pressure should be 22-26 psi. "Cold" = 68deg. F.
The gambit of cracking the injector line nuts on the FD is a good starting point for a check of flow to the injectors. If there is flow at all the fittings, the next step is to remove all the nozzles, reconnect the lines to the nozzles, and place each nozzle in a separate container (soda bottle). With the pump running, pressing down on the air flow sensor plate should produce a spray of fuel from each nozzle, and the discharge from each should be equal. The cracking pressure for the check valves in the nozzles is about 40 psi.

Gentleman, as always thank you for your morale support. Maybe we are on to something here. Didnt get a chance to work on it this evening. Will put gauge back on tomorrow night and make the other checks and report in. Chuck you describe the air flap as almost floating, when cold, and fuel pressure pump is running. You touch it with your finger and it will travel a bit? That is definately not my situation. What could be the cause of the resistance?

key in run position, car not running, wur connector in, safety switch disconnected...fuel pump running.

5s 30psi
10s 30psi
15s 32psi
20s 32psi
25s 32psi
30s 35psi
45s 39psi
55s 40psi
60s 40psi
90s 44psi