Also checked voltage at .4 ohm resistor measured good. The voltage on distributor 15 was 3.8vdc. Voltage on ignition. Coil 1 was good as well.

Bob,

Give a thought to adjusting the mixture screw in the linkage between the air vane and the fuel dist. If that has been set to the rich side (clockwise) there is a possibility that the metering plunger is being held open slightly, as you may have discovered by pulling up on the vane. In any event, the nozzle check valves should close at about 40 psi, and maintain that pressure.

If you do adjust the mixture screw, keep track of how much you move it.
The adjustments are made in increments of about 45deg. or less.

Frank surprised you didnt mention the air vane rest position adjustment? I have already inspected the upper half of the air vane housing. Regreased the ball on both sides of the air vane pivot. I looked at the stop plate with the integrated switch? I noted that to make any adjustment to the mechanical stop a pin needs to be pushed in or out of the air vane housing? Is that a mechanical electrical switch used for the safety switch. This switch when opened breaks a ground connection allowing the fuel pump relay to switch from 87 (12v from ign switch,start) to 87A (12v from fuse box, run). But agreed the mixture control adjustment changes the position of the plunger. If the adjustment ccw the plunger is lowered.

Okay, air vane adjustment. As you noted, Bob, the stop is the pin that is to be tapped in or out to set the zero (rest) position of the plate.
The zero position aligns the top surface of the plate with the circular line formed by the intersection of the upper cone (funnel) and the short parallel walled section at the center of the air meter.

Yes, the safety switch is a mechanical switch. When that circuit is closed the fuel pump is shut off. Downward movement of the air flow sensor plate opens the circuit (as does pulling the plug), allowing the pump to run.

installed injectors and turned mixture adjust 1/8 turn ccw (lean). this resolved the injector leak by. Still dificult to start and get idle. It seems that it best attempts to start when the distributor is turned fully ccw(advance). when i checked timing with vacuum retard plugged it was 2-3 degrees BTDC, probably should be more than that. when I turn it cw it dies (retard). I would like to move the distributor one tooth so I am in the middle of the adjustment range and can get the necessary advance. please review image. I would have to move the rotor one tooth in the ccw direction? the image attached is with crank at TDC...there is 6 degrees of chain stretch.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Move the rotor 1 tooth CW!

You have rotated the body of the distributor CCW to advance, so the rotor must be moved in the opposite rotation, i.e., CW, to advance.

attempted one tooth cw this morning. Must have gone two lost timing marks. How many teet on the distributor drive and how does it translate to change in timing indication on the crank pulley.

There are 12 teeth on the dist. gear.
1 tooth (dist.) = 30 deg. (dist.) = 60 deg. (crank)

Did the engine start?

Frank my distributor housing was turned fully ccw. to get the housing in its midrange adjustment the housing would be required to be turned cw. does this mean i should have rotated the rotor ccw?

[QUOTE]"Frank my distributor housing was turned fully ccw."

Turning the distributor housing in the CCW direction caused the firing point to be advanced, as you observed.

Turning the distributor rotor in the CW direction (by one tooth) will also cause the firing point to advance.

[QUOTE]"does this mean i should have rotated the rotor ccw?"

NO; rotor CW to advance.

In doing these adjustments and checks, please leave both vacuum lines off. 10-12 deg. BTC W/O vacuum.

Yes I am now getting some advance (BTDC)after it was explained to me that firing to the right of the crank indicator pin is advance .I was actually measuring 2 to 3 ° (ATDC) retard with the distributor housing fully ccw. Moving the distributor one tooth cw was necessary.
For some reason i am starting to wonder if the timing isnt jumping around. But the car isn't much different than when I started. Can get it to start slow idle and eventually stall. Also noted tonight that the idle adjust doesn't have any affect. When the car wasnt running I even screwed it all the way out in case there was something in the housing. I am a bit frustrated at this point. Is it possible that there is something wrong with the distributor? What happens if you have a failed return spring on the mechanical advance?

Maybe its time for a compression check? I have been amazed how quiet this engine is on the top end. My other M110 sounds like a diesal . When this runs it is quiet...no lifter noise? No smoke out the exhaust.
the plugs appear to be fouled...will that keep it from idling?

Before having a go at the compression pressures, please adjust the valve clearances.

Cold, In .004", Ex. .010" with a light drag on the feeler blade.

The lack of clatter from the top end suggests tight valves.

If the plugs have sooted it will make idling poor.

Statically set ignition timing to 10° advance.
Measured cold system pressure 9 psi.
Will be adjusting cold system pressure closer to 20psi. Garage approaching 60° F.
New set of plugs...will then try starting.

Had the wur off and on 4 times this evening. Moved the post the bimetallic strip sits on .027" inwards no change. Checked for change with 12v on bimetallic strip. Waited 45 seconds no change. Still at 10psi. Tested strip it heats up. Tomorrow will put regulator only with no spring pressure on the car. Need to see 40psi with this test. I wrote down how much I moved it originally.can't find it now. Thought was like .014".

Have it working correctly. Started at 40 psi and adjusted about 5 times. It is currently set at 22 psi. Will test with 12v tomorrow. Will locate some non resistor plugs tomorrow.