I got a short warning. A couple times the door hesitated, but now the Driver side door will not fully close - does not engage - no click sound from the latch like you would get from any door when it shuts properly.

So, I cannot drive the car safely, nor lock it. any ideas ?

1987 126 300SE euro.

If squirting WD40 onto the latching mechanism doesn't help, maybe a replacement of the locking mechanism will cure the problem?

I've seen the door strap cause this problem especially if the door has been forced to far open than its normal travel. You can pop the pin out to see if it's the cause.

S124300, I was hoping to find a solution before replacing parts. Mostly because I am not sure which part to replace at this point. I will try using the graphite stuff for locks, though it does not feel as if any part of the mechanism is "stuck"

i6h000- I've replaced door straps on this car before. It sure feels like a different issue. When the strap fails the door does not travel smoothly and at times you hear a groaning sound.

This is different in nature. Door travels smoothly & silently - just does not "bite" it does not engage & click when coming in contact with the door striker- therefore not secured to the frame.
So I am wondering whether this is an issue with the door lock or with the striker on the frame.
Thanks for the good thoughts.

I bet a big chunk of rubber is missing off the buffer to the latch.

Happened on my SD recently. Replaced it with a rear door one off a junkyard car.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Upon finding better light and a calmer state of mind for inspection, I found the missing link - (well you might say the broken link...) I highlighted the bottom piece of the door striker insert - On my door, It has broken off. quite clear now why the door will not stay in a "shut" position. Thanks all for helping out.

Attached Thumbnails

 

See. There you have it. Be careful with those allen head bolts, they like to strip.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Temporary fix would involve moving the rear door striker to the front.

Using the back door striker will still prevent me from locking the car - So, on my way to get a replacement. Thanks

Well, this old thread was invaluable. My driver's rear door would close but only loosely beginning yesterday. I assumed the locking mechanism had broken. I looked at the pic in this thread, went out and looked at mine. Sure enough the rubber/plastic bumper is broken off. As a field expedient, I looked down and found a short twing, broke it off to the right length, and stuffed it into the bumper slot. Closed the door and it stayed shut. So thanks for that.

So I am wondering if I cannot just dig out the rest of the plastic bumper and put something in the slot? Why buy a complete new striker (is that what it is called)?

Can anyone post a pic of the striker with the bumper intact so I can see how far it is supposed to stick out? My other three doors are also missing the bumper but they still close OK. If it works, I plan to do the other three doors maybe.

Tangofox007 = today you replied to a question about a door lock: There are two separate rubber components. Which one are you seeking?

Here is a link to the part that typically breaks:

AtPartsOnline : .html

This does not cover a 1981 300SD. Is there a similar repair part available for my missing/broken off plastic bumper in my striker? See my post above.

Thx.
____

Bump. Can anyone send me a pic of the striker with the bumper so I can figure out how far it should stick out when I replaced the bumper.

Thx