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#1
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Were the clusters problems on the early W140s?
I was wondering because the 1993 W140 I am hopefully getting next week has a digital odometer rather than the roll-type number one. The miles are right though, its a one-owner car and the mileage is correct with the records, etc. I didnt think to look or ask about the odometer that the time, because I didnt realize this was not factory until later that day when I was looking at other early W140s and all had the roll-type odometers.
The car is in pristine condition and the car has been serviced since the same independent Mercedes mechanic (and NO one else) since 1996. I may ask him about it next week when he gets back to the shop. I was just wondering how common/uncommon it was for someone to put in a new cluster in the early W140's. |
#2
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I've read that the early analog odometers had issues with a plastic gear breaking and rendering the odometer/tripometer inop. I believe that Mercedes covered a lot of repairs for this. That car sounds nice and might have been updated.
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1983 380SL 1995 C280 1995 S500 coupe 1990 Mazda Miata 2004 Suzuki Hayabusa |
#3
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The 140s and 129s both had problems with the I/C and for as long as I remember all replacements have the digital ODO.
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![]() 90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
#4
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I would not consider both types a real issue. The the real threat to the W140 of the year you are interested is:
A) The A/C condenser issue B) The Bio degradable wiring C) All W140's with a 722.3-722.5 transmission will blow the reverse-gear lip-seal that will render reverse gear useless. As a owner of two 140's, the two problems that you'll experience: A) The vacuum pump that works the soft-close doors will weaken, and the pump will need to dissembled, and cleaned to restore the suction. Eventually the tail-tail sign is the pump will need to pull fuse No 9 to reset the pump. The pump mechanism CAN be cleaned instead of purchasing a new pump for over a $1k or rebuilt for $500 B) The vacuum diaphragms that operate the door locks will fail one by one, and the problem is very annoying, Yet even my 98 W140 has the problem. What happens is the plastic latches break holding the diaphragm together, and vacuum cannot be acheived. I fix them on my 96 W140 by holding them together with small cable-ties. It's been five years, and the cable tie trick worked! If you have to follow ONLY one recommendation when you get your W140, replace the heater plastic tee before you do anything(or drive the car!!)-this will save the engine's life. When the tee breaks you have about 30seconds to stop the engine before you destroy it for good. Now, some W140's came with a metal one, but most are plastic. If yours is plastic, buy one from the dealer only. Do not buy a aftermarket one... Read this thread: the evil that lurks under the hood... is really the devil himself - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum Best of luck Martin |
#5
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Why that fast? I've driven cars without coolant 5-10 minutes without a problem, although that was from stone cold. And many late models allow you to drive up to 50 miles with no water. As long as oil pressure is good there shouldn't be any harm for a few minutes.
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#6
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Quote:
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Not sure about that hose you are referring to, I will ask the tech about it, if its been replaced on this car, he would know, as he has been the only mechanic on it since 1996. I read that thread and it looks like its talking about the S600 / 600SEL, this car is a 400SEL that I am looking at, but not sure if that makes a difference. |
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