My 87 560 has about 157k on it. I am coming up to the 160k mile mark. Timing chain guides are supposed to be done every 80k miles or 10 years. Now I have been shopping around for a mechanic and one I spoke to yesterday said that he can inspect the chain and if the chain has no slack and if I am not hearing a clanging or slapping noise when I first turn the car on in the morning then the car would not need to have the guides or chain done as of now. I bought the car without records and it has been very good to me so far, anyone had their chain inspected instead of replaced?
Thank you.

You can measure the chain for stretch by removing the cam covers and measuring the degree of stretch from the cam markings to the crank pulley.

The chain guides are white in color when new. As they age, they will get darker until they are coffee colored. If they are that color, then you should replace.

Good luck.

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With best regards

Al

Chains themselves are very stout (double row, that is), but tensioners can fail and guides are subject to degradation due to exposure to crankcase gasses and heat cycles. When they break it sets off a "chain reaction" that leads to disaster. It is difficult to tell when to change them just by color. Unfortunately, they are the hardest part to change since removal involves stripping the front of the engine , and once you have done that, you may as well change the chain and tensioner ( and sprockets, too) for good measure.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Preventative maintenance tells us that at over 20 years and 150,000 miles with NO records, you are past time to change the long 560 timing chains, the tensioner and the guide rails.

In fact I do it every 100,000 miles (or 10 years).

The risk is not worth it, if the chain lets go (usually more often it happens on the left side) there can be a horrible disaster. Better be safe than sorry.

This is also the time after the valve covers are removed, to also check the cam oilers and injectors and replace those if needed.

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1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ...

1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold)

2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp

1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k

2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)

Definitely pull the covers and check the guides. The whole front of the engine does not have to be torn down to replace the uppers and the tensioner guide. If you wait until you hear slapping/clattering the next sound you will hear is silence......... Oh, and find a new mechanic...

If you are on a very tight budget, at least do the guides and tensioner rail liner. You can do them all for about $40 and an afternoon. Buy the tool and do it yourself for ~$35...it is cheaper than any mechanic.

You need new cam cover gaskets along with those crush washers too. I second the notion of the plastic camshaft oiler units, replace them too. Cheap.

The more you dig the more you will find wrong. Most rubber will be degraded to the point of plastic at this time causing grief. I just did a massive rebuild on my 560 (intake reseal along with welding up of emission ports, SLS rebuild, new water pump, front main, new chain/guides, CIS reseal/tune, true dual exhaust, A/C rebuild) and finally have it running. Just know it is an uphill battle on an old car.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

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