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  #1  
Old 11-04-2008, 04:27 PM
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W124 4matic sedan lowering

I have a 1993 300e 4matic. I just put new AMG E63 wheels on it. It drives great and even looks better. The fit is dead on, and the 4matic system is working great. The problem is I went from the stock 195/65-15" to a 215/45-17" the size works out fine. But the gap between the tires and the fender looks weird. I need to lower the car about 1.5" any sugestions?
Thanks,
Brian
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  #2  
Old 11-04-2008, 05:33 PM
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Can you cut the springs ?

Can you cut the springs and not screw-up the the 4matic sensors/system. Or is there a better way to bring it down about a 1.5" ?
Thanks,
Brian
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2008, 06:43 PM
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I'd be afraid of cutting the 4matic front springs. The front axles go through the stretched section of the front coils, you'd have to cut both ends the same, and not rotate the springs, ... seems risky.

It might be worth comparing the US vs Euro ride height to see if there is a Euro spring for the 4matic that is shorter.
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  #4  
Old 11-04-2008, 06:45 PM
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the car is that ride height for a reason

if you want to slam the car sell it and get a non AWD version of the car.
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  #5  
Old 09-20-2012, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
the car is that ride height for a reason

if you want to slam the car sell it and get a non AWD version of the car.

Not really.
I've seen many AWD drive sedans than have been lowered or slammed...
Have you ever tried modding anything

How about a custom dune buggy?

DN150 Baja Buggy modified and converted to 750cc Suzuki - YouTube
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  #6  
Old 11-05-2008, 10:25 AM
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I think because of the shape of the front springs, maybe you could cut the first top coil. Then do the same to the rear at the top only. I only need about and inch or so. Does anybody or as anybody done this and would it work?
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  #7  
Old 09-20-2012, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by PERFORMANCELSE View Post
I think because of the shape of the front springs, maybe you could cut the first top coil. Then do the same to the rear at the top only. I only need about and inch or so. Does anybody or as anybody done this and would it work?

Did you ever try this?

Got some 17" offset 06 C230 sport rims
now I need to lower it slightly

and please only people respond that have tried this...
There are more than enough forums that people don't want to try anything and want a easy sell/purchase or pay someone else to work on their car for them. Their first response usually has nothing positive to add to the post or thread. Thank you.




And yea, I like my car so much I'd rather try to covert to RWD suspension/wheel/knuckles, etc.. to lower it
than sell and buy a RWD model
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Last edited by EuroRash; 09-20-2012 at 12:12 AM.
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  #8  
Old 09-20-2012, 01:00 AM
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Start by checking if have the shortest spring pads in the front already, and install a set if you don't. With the front on the shortest spring pads, adjust your rear leveling to match the front.

If that's not enough add a little sidewall. The tire looks tiny on those wheels.

If that's still not enough you can cut the (front) springs. I'd recommend no more than 1/4 coil at at time from the top of the spring only.
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  #9  
Old 09-20-2012, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by duxthe1 View Post
Start by checking if have the shortest spring pads in the front already, and install a set if you don't. With the front on the shortest spring pads, adjust your rear leveling to match the front.

If that's not enough add a little sidewall. The tire looks tiny on those wheels.

If that's still not enough you can cut the (front) springs. I'd recommend no more than 1/4 coil at at time from the top of the spring only.
Thank you

Is there a # on the pad or basically get access to it and measure?

Tires are 225/45



Oh and have you ever tried slotted/drilled front brake rotors?
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  #10  
Old 09-20-2012, 01:55 PM
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On the edge of the spring pad are between 1 and 4 nipples, with 1 being the thinnest, 4 the thickest.

I run vented and slotted rotors in the rear, but just regular vented discs up front, with ceramic pads all around. Its a decent set up but I could use more clamp in the front to keep that 11PSI from getting me into trouble.
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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE
104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff
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  #11  
Old 09-20-2012, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duxthe1 View Post
On the edge of the spring pad are between 1 and 4 nipples, with 1 being the thinnest, 4 the thickest.

I run vented and slotted rotors in the rear, but just regular vented discs up front, with ceramic pads all around. Its a decent set up but I could use more clamp in the front to keep that 11PSI from getting me into trouble.
Thanks for the info
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  #12  
Old 09-21-2012, 02:32 AM
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My wagon used to look as high as yours...I cut 1 coil off the front springs and put #1 pads and it now it looks perfect. No longer is the car about to take off!

#1 pads pn: 201-321-0984 that is for the 8mm version, there are (4) total and each add 5mm. For you, start with #1's for sure

Ride quality is no different with one coil cut and since they are not progressive springs, it makes no difference. With your 4matic, you just have to make sure you cut one entire coil off if you want to do it so you don't reverse anything since you don't have that luxury.

I am running 225/50/16 16x8 8 holes not a single rub at any point.
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  #13  
Old 09-21-2012, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
My wagon used to look as high as yours...I cut 1 coil off the front springs and put #1 pads and it now it looks perfect. No longer is the car about to take off!

#1 pads pn: 201-321-0984 that is for the 8mm version, there are (4) total and each add 5mm. For you, start with #1's for sure

Ride quality is no different with one coil cut and since they are not progressive springs, it makes no difference. With your 4matic, you just have to make sure you cut one entire coil off if you want to do it so you don't reverse anything since you don't have that luxury.

I am running 225/50/16 16x8 8 holes not a single rub at any point.
Thank you for the info. I think most people purchase H&R springs for lowering non 4Ms. (Something I wish I could do)

When installing new front rotors yesterday I noticed I have #3 pads in the front. I assume the rears are at least that.

I'm thinking of just taking the pads out and see how it looks.
Since 4M front springs are not something you see for sale everyday.
I'm sure I could buy new, but at what cost?

I might see about converting the whole thing to a 2WD if I can find a low cost donor vehicle.
Not sure if I can transfer the oil pan to eliminate the front dif'.

Otherwise purchasing used 4M springs to cut up, would be the alternative.

Now if I could find a 2WD version with the same color, then I'd just transfer over my upgrades.
Since now it's due for new gaskets and seals here and there.
I'm sure most are the originals now with 230k miles on them.

New headlights and front rotors installed recently



Selling headlight wipers on eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221128065636?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649



Conversion note:

Although time/labor involved I thinking converting to 2WD would involve changing front knuckle/hubs/brakes and possibly the sway bar. Maybe dropping the TC then bolt on the extension hangar (tail housing) of a 2WD model tranny. Then capping off the line for the TC to keep the SLS system. It would be nice to know for sure I could lose the extra weight of the front dif by changing out the oil pan from a 2WD model
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Last edited by EuroRash; 09-21-2012 at 12:21 PM. Reason: more blah blah blah... & photos
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  #14  
Old 09-21-2012, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
With your 4matic, you just have to make sure you cut one entire coil off if you want to do it so you don't reverse anything since you don't have that luxury.
I disagree, you can cut increments from the 4-matic spring, but only from the top. The pad can be rotated to index properly to the new "end" of the spring.
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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE
104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff
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  #15  
Old 09-21-2012, 01:46 PM
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Only saw one used front set for sale on eBay for $134

But this is how front 4M springs look like




I guess I could say "the hell with it" and go ahead and cut one coil front and rear. Then change pads after that if needed.
It's not like it's my only means of transpo.
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