1995 e320 coupe dtc code help - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

eKretz · #1 01-18-2013, 12:39 AM

Hi guys, I have been roped into working on a friend's car (1995 e320 coupe) and am not familiar with the mercedes stuff. I read as much as I could in a day and found out how to build the blinker to read the codes. So I did, and it worked fine. The car also has the button on pin 2 so I got the codes from the DM. On the DM I got codes 5 and 23. 5 as I understand is the EGR. No problem there, I can take care of that...but 23 has me wondering? Is it a vacuum leak?

Pin 8, ECU is clear, got a single flash.

Pin 14 gave me a 3 and a 14. 3 is Right EA/CC/ISC actuator (left cylinder bank) (M16/1) and 14 is closed throttle position contact switch. Not sure what to make of the 3, by CC I guess it's something to do with cruise control. 14 it would appear is telling me that the throttle position sensor is kaput?

I have reset the codes to see if they all come back and am waiting for the car to be driven to see what gets re-set. Any help or insight into the best avenue of investigation would be much appreciated.

Gilly · #2 01-18-2013, 04:45 AM

Might help to know what the problem is with the car outside of just the codes.

eKretz · #3 01-18-2013, 01:33 PM

No problems with driveability but the car needs to be emission tested to get a new license plate and they won't even check it if the MIL is on. I believe the ASR light is also on.

Gilly · #4 01-18-2013, 04:09 PM

I suppose if the bulb is pulled they will notice that?

Gilly · #5 01-18-2013, 04:12 PM

Wonder why your info indicated left cylinder bank on an inline 6?
These are known for crappy wiring harness on the engine, where you see the wiring coming out of the plastic conduit do you notice insulation cracks in individual wires?

eKretz · #6 01-18-2013, 04:48 PM

I wondered about the left bank thing myself. Maybe it is only left bank on cars that have a vee configuration.

Yes they check that the MIL lights up in the key on, engine off position, so pulling the bulb will just get you a fail.

I have read about the wiring harness: supposedly this one has already been changed out.

Arthur Dalton gave me a few ideas through PM, I will give his suggestions a look and reply afterwards if the problem goes away or not.

eKretz · #7 01-19-2013, 01:08 PM

No, pulling the MIL bulb won't work; step 1 of the emissions test is to check that the MIL lights up in the key on, engine off position. If it doesn't, instant fail.

I wondered about that code explanation also...maybe it's just a universal explanation for all engines, and the left bank part only has meaning for an engine that has a vee configuration.

I have read about the wiring harness issues and according to my friend, she was told that the wiring harness had already been replaced. I will take a closer look to make sure the wires look okay though.

Arthur Dalton has given me a few ideas through PM also. I will get back to you guys after I have a chance to investigate and let everybody know the results. Thanks again for the ideas and help.

Gilly · #8 01-19-2013, 03:59 PM

Don't know if I should mention this as it seems like an easy way out:
If you turn the key on you notice several lights that come on, then go off when the car is started.
The bulb sockets for these lights can pull out and can be swapped around relatively easily. I will let you dwell on that. As long as they don't notice another nearby indicator is not coming on.......
Gilly

eKretz · #9 01-19-2013, 04:21 PM

Well, it never hurts to make a suggestion, but I would certainly prefer to fix the problem correctly. If it becomes a time constraint issue, perhaps I'll consider that idea.

I have just taken a quick look at the throttle cable per Arthur's suggestion and there appears to be plenty of slack, but there is a broken return spring hanging from the throttle bracket. I'm going to replace it and see if maybe the throttle maybe just wasn't being fully closed.

eKretz · #10 01-19-2013, 04:31 PM

It never hurts to offer a suggestion, however I would prefer to fix it correctly. If there comes a time when time is of the essence then I will consider that idea a little closer.

In the meantime Arthur suggested I look at the throttle cable's slack, and in doing so I found what appears to be a broken throttle return spring, which could possibly cause the throttle switch and low vacuum code. I'll switch to a new spring ASAP and report back.

eKretz · #11 01-20-2013, 03:37 PM

Hmm, this is my third attempt at a reply, the other two did not post for some reason. After hitting 'submit reply' it gave me a message about a moderator needing to approve my post before it showed up, but a day later they still haven't showed up.

I'll try again. It never hurts to offer an idea, but I would prefer to fix the problem correctly. If there comes a moment when we are up against a time constraint, then I will look into that. I have checked the throttle cable slack per Mr. Dalton's suggestion and in the process of doing so, discovered what appears to be a broken throttle return spring. This would most likely set off the same codes as not enough throttle cable slack if the throttle isn't fully closing, since that would cause the throttle closed switch not to activate as well as low manifold vacuum. I am going to switch it out ASAP and will report back.

eKretz · #12 01-23-2013, 05:18 PM

Ok I have replaced the spring today and took the car for a drive and the check engine light is staying off. However, the ASR light came on while I was braking. I felt a single pulse in the pedal as I was braking for a turn and the light came on. After I got back I read the codes again and on 2 (DM) I got a 23. Pins 8 and 14 were both clear, with only a single flash.

I also tried to spin the tires in the dirt and they are freely spinning with no traction control intervention. The dash light with the triangle is coming on when the tires spin though.

eKretz · #13 01-27-2013, 09:41 PM

OK, the check engine light is back on. Guess it was a temporary reprieve. I'll check the codes and see what is up. I had high hopes that the throttle spring was going to do the trick...hopefully those codes are gone, and all I have to contend with is the EGR.

daddi · #14 01-28-2013, 08:46 AM

Just pull out the cluster and remove the bulb and put the bulb for the brake wear in the check engine light socket, then the light comes on at powerup and goes out at startup.