Good Day Guys, Will be doing head job soon and am preparing both mentally,tool-wise and gasket kit set.What is the size of the torx bit to pull the head bolt?
thanks.Lanny.:

617 589 00 10 00 I believe is the part number if you go to the dealer. Otherwise, it's a 12mm, 12 point torx. I have one made by Hazet, nice tool. Like $36 I think

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Streetside: 1987 Mercedes 300E Petrol Blue/Green
2014 Ford Mustang Grabber Blue
1999 Ford Ranger Green

Dockside: 1968 Eltro 17
1985 Silverton 34C

If you are consumiming a bit of oil, the valve guides and seals would be on my to do list.

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

Thanks Lorainfurniture,will order guides and stem seals as recommended for installation.

12mm Serrated Wrench, it's a 12 point (triple square) that you can use with a 1/2 '' socket.
I bought mine at Genuine Auto Parts (NAPA), part #SER2306, for about $8.

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

Replace water pump bypass hose.

Leave intake manifold in engine. Detach from head and remove head only with exhaust manifolds attached. This will save 5hrs off time and no risk of damaging fuel injection items.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Read over the FSM to prepare mentally. It is a pretty easy job all things considered. I pulled my intake plenum so I could remove the rest of the EGR crap. The hardpipe was beyond caked up so the system was not working anyway.

Consider a front main seal if yours is suspect or leaking. The tool to lock the crank is $40, well worth it, seems silly to pay rental fee then pay postage both ways including time lost going to the post office. I would do a coolant flush while apart, inspect ALL rubber while the stuff is apart... motor mounts, motor shocks, CIS hoses, belt, etc

I paid ~$325 to have my head rebuilt, plus parts. I did guides, springs, stem seals, skimmed (bring upper timing cover too!), valves reground, AIR injection blocked with freeze plug, etc, etc.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Thanks all for your input.Will be going out to get the 12mm.torx for the pulling of the headbolts first thing in the morning.:cool

Do yourself a favor and buy a degree tool to make sure you are doing exactly 90 degree's per turn when you torque the head bolts upon reinstall. It gets a real workout in, and trying to make sure you did 90 degree's at the same time can be tricky. Its not as easy as it sounds and you'll understand when you get to it.

So do yourself a favor and get a tool that shows the degree's as I did:


If you feel up to the front timing cover, its well worth it to avoid leaks. No tool technically needed. Put a breaker bar under the chassis frame and spin the starter ONCE and it should pop it loose. Worked great for me.

Oh and if you feel like it too -- rattle can the exhaust manifolds. Mine are still looking great after 3 years Cheap and easy to make it bay look a little less aged.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k