I have a '95 SL500 with the M119 motor. I have oil leaking past the "O" ring on the blockside of the oil level sensor. Here's the question: To remove the sensor from inside the block, can the sensor be accessed by removing ONLY the lower oil pan? Does anyone know how the sensor is attached inside the lower blocK? I assume there are two bolts, are they attached to the block or to the crankshaft in some manner? Outside the block, there appears to be a fastener, sort of a clip retainer, does this just slide off? Has anyone tried to use a high temp silicone sealer on the outside of the sensor/block to stop the leaking? I haven't been able to find this info before I attempt the repair.

Thanks, Steve

Yes, it can.


There are two screws that mount the sensor, the circlip holds the connector from outside the pan, and there are a couple of plastic clips that secure the wire connecting the two.

__________________

90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

Thanks for the reply re: removing the lower oil pan for access. Anyone had success trying to stop the "leaking" from the exterior of the block with a heat resistant RTV or silicone? I'm looking for a temporary fix until I can get to the real repair.

Thanks Steve

Mercedes replaced the level sensor in my 92, stupd mechanic did not check wiring, anyway the engine needs to be raised to get the lower pan off since there are bolts inside. They did a bad job and it leaked and had to be redone, they also tried telling me the pan was warped, well it did not leak before!

Hey Pete, I've been getting conflicting info re: this replacement. I have had two other folks say that only removing the lowest oil pan with about 16 allen or torx head screws, will allow access to the level sensor without the need to raise the engine. Now I don't know a lot about the lower half of the '95 M119 motor, but it appears from my looking underneath that it is possible to replace without taking the next (and larger) portion of the oil pan/block off. That's why I posted this to get the correct info BEFORE I start the repair. I don't have the equipement to raise the motor or loosen engine mounts.

Can any of our Master Techs weigh in on this for me? I would also like some opinion on a temporary exterior RTV "fix".

Thanks Steve

The sensor can be replaced by removing the subpan only. If your engine mounts are beginning to collapse you may need to raise the engine to get access to all of the bolts holding the subpan to the main oil pan. I wouldn't try sealing the leak from the outside because it likely won't do any good and will just make for more work when you get around to fixing it properly.

__________________
Mercedes Benz Master Tech - Retired

Thank You for the quick reply and providing accurate information. The sub pan is totally accessible, all of the screws are visible, I don't recall whether they are torx head or allen head, but aside from having to drain the oil and replace the gasket, it shouldn't take too long.

Can you give me your opinion whether to use an RTV seal on both sides of the pan gasket to promote better sealing when I reassemble the oil pan? Should I put some RTV on the "O" ring where it seals into the block?
I have had folks recommend that approach, what do you think? Is there any downside to this?

Thanks, Steve