Year ago I replaced Pads and Rotors with xdrilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads from R1. Squeal was awful when I applied brakes.. worse in reverse. Also always felt like one of the rotors were warped as I could feel it on pedal when I applied brakes. I followed thier break in instructions but I wondered if that break in they recomended is what could have warped a rotor..??
Yesterday I installed new Textar OEM Pads and xdrilled front rotors and solid rear rotors..
The ^&*(%# Squeal is still there? Nice smooth stops now and no feeling of warped rotor but the squeal is driving me nuts..
Am I missing somthing?

Might help to clarify what car we're talking about...

That said, those pouches of MB brake "paste" work wonders when applied properly.

Apply a thin coat of anti-squeal paste to the back of each brake pad where it contacts the caliper piston.

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Fred Hoelzle

Sorry , the car is a 2007 S550. Is there a part number on the grease? Is one brand any better than another. Does it have to be reaplied from time to time?

Call the Parts Department at your local MB dealer and inquire about the anti-squeal paste. The staff at my local MB dealer is extremely helpful and courteous.

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Fred Hoelzle

Well it's almost "too late" now. But here is what I learned about squeal, and most ppl think I'm nuts but I GOT RESULTS with this, where others failed.

Key thing, other than yes using the anti-squeal GREASE

(not the gummy RTV sort of stuff either, I actually did just fine using high temp bearing grease, but the greasey stuff that they call anti-squeal paste is good too)

is to do a very good set of break-in stops, otherwise know as bedding in the brakes. You have to be careful at first of course the pads aren't bedded at all. But you need to, on the initial road test, do a series of 4 or 5 very hard stops, meaning just before the abs starts kicking in, right at that edge. I would do them first at about 40 mph or so and if you want to go up from there that's fine. Watch your situation to make sure no one is even remotely close to you from behind. The bigger the brake the faster and harder you have to do it. Had a real bad problem like this with the ML 163 chassis and ultimately the truck was fixed by doing like 10 hard break-in stops, those brakes stunk like a burning pile of pig crap. Make sure you let the brakes cool down normally if they get that hot of course (no water). Don't know if it would improve your situation now or not, i never had much luck fixing a squeal after they started squealing, you have to do this on the first drive.

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copper antisieze works great too - and it is vital to correctly bed in (burnish) the brakes before hard use. You might also want to buy a dial gauge to measure run out warp of the discs if you have doubts.

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