I was driving the '88 300 CE to the body shop this morning, after a modest accident last Friday. It died a couple of times, restarted, then stalled and had a hard time starting. It finally died and wouldn't start at all. Stuck at an intersection, I'm told I had traffic backed up for a mile or so-quite an accomplishment in a town of less than 40k souls.

I'd like help getting a handle on why it wouldn't start. It seemed like it was not getting fuel. I say "seemed", but have no idea, really. This is what I know:

-The accident was not severe. My son rear-ended a monster truck and hit their hitch receiver. Hood, grill and sheet metal between lights is munched. Hood can't be opened, so I don't know conditions under the hood. No fluid leaking.

-The morning of the accident, we had to disengage all the fuses one by one to get the radio to turn off (the fuse that the fuse schedule indicated was the one had no effect). I couldn't check the fuses this AM because I couldn't raise the hood.

-The car has been running rough and stalling for some time, especially in reverse.

-My mechanic assessed the problem as a "carboned up fuel distributor". I'm not convinced: fuel distributors don't show up as common culprits for rough idle and stalling on this board.

-I ordered a fuel pump relay recently (on the strength of posts on this forum for similar stalling problems), but received the wrong part, so don't know if it would have helped.

-the Overvoltage Relay was replaced about 2-1/2 years ago. It helped a lot at the time. I assume it is still good.

So:

I think the stalling before is likely related to today's refusal to start. In my mind this points to a fuel pump or the electronics that control it (fuse, relay, etc).

The fuse could be the culprit-in my experience, the last thing you messed with is likely to be the cause of a new problem.

Do you gentlemen have any ideas? This may be moot, if the adjuster totals the car.

Is a "carboned up fuel distributor" a common problem?

Thanks

Louis

"Carbon in fuel distributor" = "time for new mechanic"
Carbon is the results of fuel burning. This doesn't happen in the fuel distributor, only in the cylinders and exhaust system. A little bit of exhaust does go back into the intake manifold but that won't cause rough idle and stalling unless the EGR valve is hung open.

You need to see if there was any damage to the engine like cooling fan not being able to turn because of the accident or possibly the ignition distributor damaged by accident.

Paul

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

Louis, you need to get the hood open and evaluate all damage resulting from the recent accident. Remove and closely inspect the distributor cap for cracks and deposits on the terminals, clean as required. Also, clean the end of the distributor rotor. Replace both if there are over 60,000 miles on them. Spark plugs should be replaced every 30,000 miles. The ignition wires may need replacement too if they are old and cracked.

As you mention, there is no sense doing too much to the car before the insurance adjuster decides if it's totaled, or not. It won't take much damage to total a 1988 300CE.

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Fred Hoelzle

If your insurance adjuster totals it and you decide to part it, think of me first in line to offer on the seat belt presenters.

Seriously though I hope it doesn't come to that. Ditto on checking the wiring and distributor cap. Then maybe the fuel pump relay, then maybe..... (2 problems I've had, to name a few...)

Carboned up fuel distributor??????
Don't let yourself get "Car - Boned"

Thanks all. Questions regarding stalling appear to be moot: it's been totaled. The damage estimate came to $3700, insurance valued the car at $2800.

So now my question is whether that is an appropriate value. Any feedback and data I can give to the insurance company would be appreciated.

The car is an '88 300 CE, Diamond Blue, in good condition, 116,000 miles. No rust, dings, etc. Paint in good condition. Interior good-wear on the drivers seat leather, but leather intact and seat cushions good.

Is $2800 about right, or do I push back?

Thanks

1988 Mercedes-Benz 300CE 2 Door Coupe Value, Prices & Specs | NADAguides | NADA 1988 Mercedes-Benz 300CE Book Value & 1988 Mercedes-Benz 300CE Market Price

Everything depends on your insurance policy and how it is written. Generally the wording mentions something about the "replacement value" plus tax, licensing you know, things you've been paying for all these years...

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I have never met a man so ignorant that I couldn't learn something from him. -Galileo Galilei, physicist and astronomer (1564-1642)

i think 3200-3400

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

Depends. My 300e wouldn't budge below that price, about the same condition as you described, of course not a coupe. I think if you were to sell it, that would be a fair price that you would get. It also depends on your location and market, rust free car in rust belt, etc. you can always not accept the settlement and ask for more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

If you're a DIYer, work out a deal to get both payout from the insurance and the car back. Strip it for parts and have the carcass hauled off.

Or take the payout, and just get a new car.