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  #1  
Old 07-17-2014, 01:42 PM
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CBJR
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Beachwood OH
Posts: 19
190E 2.6 Questions

Hi, i ve been looking to this forum for a long time but this is my first post.

i have couple questions about my1990 190E 2.6. i bought this 190E 2 months ago and working on it since. when i bought it, it had intermittent no start issue which i guess solved by a used MAS relay. also i have changed OVP and voltage regulator. but still it takes some cranking to fire it up. dont get me wrong its much much better than when i bought it but still it looks gorgeous and i want it to work like it too. i am suspecting the spark plugs may be the wrong ones. also before i bought the car seller changed the dist. cap rotor and fuel filter and plugs.(i have the recipt)

my other question is when idling my dash lights flickering a bit. is it related to the voltage regulator? because it flickers in sync with the engine. (i may did a newbie mistake though, i bought a uro voltage regulator of of ebay... it was before i discovered pelican parts)

my last question is about the EGR valve. since i passed my last inspection of the car i dont need emission stuff that badly. anyways, all vacum lines on it are just gone and it is leaking (i did the pressure test..) so i dont want to pollute my engine with it and want to block it but i cant seem to find any kit regarding to it. what is your advice?

thank you very much for reading my long post and your help
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:42 PM
ARoss
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 11
I recently bought a 300E with a 2.6, not sure it's badged correctly. Anyway, I had a mechanic tell me that the fuel injection system will bleed back into the tank, causing it to crank longer than it should before firing up, especially when the car has not been run for a few days. He recomended cycling the iginition switch 2-3 times to get the pump to pressurize the system. Seems to help.
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:43 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Austin
Posts: 412
For long cranking to start ... May try looking for any visible signs of fuel leaks. Cold start valve where th copper washer is on top, eha, and of course the cluster of stuff around the fuel pumps.

I've seen where one person used a cut up beer can underneath the gasket to block the hole where the egr goes. I can't remember how they blocked the pipe.

Last edited by liquiddog; 07-17-2014 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:29 PM
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CBJR
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Beachwood OH
Posts: 19
akross- i have read about it somewhere and tried it but no difference with it. also i suspect the fuel acumulator but it tested out fine. maybe it is the cold start valve as "liquiddog" says. because it starts much better when the engine is warmer.

liquiddog- i will look for the stuff that you said and wrote back here tomorrow. for the egr i think i have to quit being lazy and make my own stuff.

thank you guys for your quick responses and tomorrow i will check the car and report back here.
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Old 07-19-2014, 05:15 PM
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CBJR
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Beachwood OH
Posts: 19
Here is my update regarding my issues. i checked for the fuel leaks around cold start valve and ICV. they all seem fine and i cleaned them a little. i havent noticed any difference.
right now i am suspecting the issue could be because of spark plugs and wires... one of the wires has been fixed with some silicon. i guess it shouldnt be like that right? also it could have wrong plugs too. as far as i know if you put resisted plugs it could cause little hard start and some rough running...
also i think my kickdown switch is far gone. when i apply full throttle the car hesitates and doesnt want to go. i got the code fore it with the blink code reader too. so i think that should be it i dont have anything else coming up in my mind so if you have any other suggestions i would be so happy. thank you very much
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