I have a 1997 e320 mfg 3/97 cranks won't start, no spark, no fuel to the rail @ the bleeder fitting. Codes P0201 thru P0206, 1420, 1453 and 446.
MIL is on, changed cam and CPS sensors. Battery is good and cannot find any blown fuses. Any comments?

Codes don't mean much while cranking but could offer some insight to car health before it quit. And . . ., it would help your cause if you posted code definitions rather than letting others look them up.

Does the fuel pump run while cranking? How long has the car been sitting? Any other history?

P0201 thru P0206 are injector faults, 1453-air pump relay, 1420-air pump switch over valve, 446-purge flow sensor. Died while car sat for 20 mins. Started and quit while backing out the drive. This happened once before, but cleared when I cleared the fault, just one fault last go around, not related. not sure about the pump, changed the plugs. Carb leaner in the intake does nada!

Have you checked the fuses in the computer coffin in the passenger engine area?

Martin

I've checked all fuses with an ohm meter at both engine fuse boxes, battery fuse panel and dash side panel.

are the engine fans running when you switch on the key? Do you have voltage at the injector positive sides?

I believe this model has a security system that allows the engine to crank but not fire (or it maybe just for diesels) - In that case the key or ignition is culprit.

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

No engine fans, 12v to injectors, tried the alarm system, seems to be off, The throttle valve motor hums constantly. Will beat on the k40 when it's cooler, I seem to have voltage in all the right spots on k40. Even though I changed the CPS is there a convienent place to the wiring out and check voltages.

I'd jumper the fuel pump to battery / ground and go from there. Look at the pump, there will be a + and - on the pump. I think the fuel pump relay is in the drivers under hood box ( you have to remove phillips screws not just flip the fuse lid )

With this system the car will crank even if the DAS X "chip in key" antitheft isn't working. I think it will still start but stall after a second or two., If you swap engine computers with another car, you must use the magic box directly behind the instrument cluster and key that belongs to both boxes. I use a spare ring antenna to work with the donor boxes key and the mechanical key to turn the lock.

The buzzing throttle is a sign that the engine computer is waking up and doing something.

When checking for voltage in this situation, don't use a digital meter, they don't load the circuit enough and can pickup stray voltage. Use an incandescent test light ( not LED either )and if you want to , the meter in parallel.

Someone else had an issue with a common ground corroding and taking lots of stuff down.

Shorted the + &- battery terminals. All the other codes disappeared. Scanned shows a P0335 CPS "A" channel failure pending. Going for a genuine MB part, not a cheap EBAY find. Not worth the effort doing it twice. My sensor did not have a allen screw; it had a star bolt that a 1/4" socket worked well on.