Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-16-2014, 05:20 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 65
Clunk From Rear Axle Binding?

I've been hearing a clunk, clunk, clunk coming from the right rear side of my 380sl with over 200k miles on it periodically after decelerating and coasting at low speed, but not on turns, and a single clunk occasionally when shifting into reverse. So, I jacked the wheel up, and shook it with my hands above and below it to see if it had any play in the bearings, which it didn't.

OTOH, when I tried to move the homokinetic's axle shaft medially and laterally, I had to use two hands and a lot of force, which produced a clunk that seemed to be similar to those I've been hearing. However, the boots are intact, and I couldn't rotate the shaft at all.

The torsion bar, connecting links, control arm bushings, flex disk, and other possible sources are all good. So, I'm wondering whether to go ahead and replace the axle or not.

Before I do, however, I was wondering how much force it should take to move the shaft medially and laterally when the wheel is up or on the ground , and whether moving it from one position to another should produce a loud clunk or not.

Thanks very much in advance for any info on this or other ways to confirm my diagnosis.

Steve

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-16-2014, 06:44 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
I think you've probably found the culprit - the axle is probably knocking. It is difficult to say how stiff an axle shaft should feel; the best thing to do is to remove the axle from the vehicle and check the torsional wear at several points along its "in and out" position. There are a few videos of this procedure on youtube such as this one =>

How to Test a Mercedes Rear Axle for Excessive Wear - Kent Bergsma - YouTube
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-16-2014, 08:38 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
I think you've probably found the culprit - the axle is probably knocking. It is difficult to say how stiff an axle shaft should feel; the best thing to do is to remove the axle from the vehicle and check the torsional wear at several points along its "in and out" position. There are a few videos of this procedure on youtube such as this one =>

How to Test a Mercedes Rear Axle for Excessive Wear - Kent Bergsma - YouTube
Stretch, thanks for the tentative confirmation, and the link to the video, which originally led me to suspect that the axle was bad. However, I was trying to avoid having to remove it until I had a replacement, and I didn't want to get a replacement until I could confirm it was the axle.

Ergo, even though the video said it had to be removed to test it, I was wondering if I could tell it was bad without removing it. And you just did that to some extent.

Accordingly, I guess I need to look around for a good used axle or a rebuilt one, since the new ones I see advertised seem to be Chinese junk.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-16-2014, 08:49 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by daimlerdude View Post
Stretch, thanks for the tentative confirmation, and the link to the video, which originally led me to suspect that the axle was bad. However, I was trying to avoid having to remove it until I had a replacement, and I didn't want to get a replacement until I could confirm it was the axle.

Ergo, even though the video said it had to be removed to test it, I was wondering if I could tell it was bad without removing it. And you just did that to some extent.

Accordingly, I guess I need to look around for a good used axle or a rebuilt one, since the new ones I see advertised seem to be Chinese junk.
It is harder to check the axles on the vehicle - if you raise the vehicle and then lift or lower the trailing arm into different positions you can get the axle to be in different "in out" positions and then you can wiggle / twist the ends to see if there is excessive wear: BUT! Because the axle cans are constrained it is possible to miss the greatest wear spot. It is much easier to find a problem with the axles removed.

As for replacement axles - well vstech (DD moderator) sells rebooted second hand units. Most people report good things about GKN axles. If, however, you get the annular axle type make sure you fit the bolts with loctite. (There have been reports of these bolts coming loose - this is the inboard differential end)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-16-2014, 10:47 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 865
swap sides. they're the same and running in a different direction puts the joints on new surfaces. and if the clunk moves to the left, you were right. btw, had an sl years ago with a clunk on reverse then forward. the rotor on the rt rr wasn't bolted to the hub and you could see the hub move, making the noise and the rotor clamped by the caliper. the wheel doesn't trap the rotor as well as i thought. good luck, chuck.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-17-2014, 03:18 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by porkface View Post
swap sides. they're the same and running in a different direction puts the joints on new surfaces. and if the clunk moves to the left, you were right.
I ended up taking the car over to a indy who specializes in German cars, and he confirmed that it was the axle as soon as he heard the clunk. Plus, it appears that the other axle is also starting to clunk. So I don't think swapping them would be the way to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by porkface View Post
btw, had an sl years ago with a clunk on reverse then forward. the rotor on the rt rr wasn't bolted to the hub and you could see the hub move, making the noise and the rotor clamped by the caliper. the wheel doesn't trap the rotor as well as i thought.
I thought of that, but it doesn't appear to be the case here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by porkface View Post
good luck, chuck.
Thanks, Chuck

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page