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#1
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Clunk From Rear Axle Binding?
I've been hearing a clunk, clunk, clunk coming from the right rear side of my 380sl with over 200k miles on it periodically after decelerating and coasting at low speed, but not on turns, and a single clunk occasionally when shifting into reverse. So, I jacked the wheel up, and shook it with my hands above and below it to see if it had any play in the bearings, which it didn't.
OTOH, when I tried to move the homokinetic's axle shaft medially and laterally, I had to use two hands and a lot of force, which produced a clunk that seemed to be similar to those I've been hearing. However, the boots are intact, and I couldn't rotate the shaft at all. The torsion bar, connecting links, control arm bushings, flex disk, and other possible sources are all good. So, I'm wondering whether to go ahead and replace the axle or not. Before I do, however, I was wondering how much force it should take to move the shaft medially and laterally when the wheel is up or on the ground , and whether moving it from one position to another should produce a loud clunk or not. Thanks very much in advance for any info on this or other ways to confirm my diagnosis. Steve |
#2
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I think you've probably found the culprit - the axle is probably knocking. It is difficult to say how stiff an axle shaft should feel; the best thing to do is to remove the axle from the vehicle and check the torsional wear at several points along its "in and out" position. There are a few videos of this procedure on youtube such as this one =>
How to Test a Mercedes Rear Axle for Excessive Wear - Kent Bergsma - YouTube
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Ergo, even though the video said it had to be removed to test it, I was wondering if I could tell it was bad without removing it. And you just did that to some extent. Accordingly, I guess I need to look around for a good used axle or a rebuilt one, since the new ones I see advertised seem to be Chinese junk. |
#4
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As for replacement axles - well vstech (DD moderator) sells rebooted second hand units. Most people report good things about GKN axles. If, however, you get the annular axle type make sure you fit the bolts with loctite. (There have been reports of these bolts coming loose - this is the inboard differential end)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#5
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swap sides. they're the same and running in a different direction puts the joints on new surfaces. and if the clunk moves to the left, you were right. btw, had an sl years ago with a clunk on reverse then forward. the rotor on the rt rr wasn't bolted to the hub and you could see the hub move, making the noise and the rotor clamped by the caliper. the wheel doesn't trap the rotor as well as i thought. good luck, chuck.
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#6
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Quote:
Thanks, Chuck |
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