I have got a noisy bearing on my relatively new ac compressor on my 85 300d. Unfortunately, the compressor is just out of warranty. Is the front bearing on these reasonably serviceable? Hoping to repair this one...

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1985 300D 296,000 miles - Project "Rusty" 1/4 mile in 19.9 sec @ 71mph. It's almost rust free and water proof!

2006 Dodge/Cummins 6-Speed - 670HP 1159ft/lbs

Read my thoughts here - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/369142-1982-300-sd-c-system.html



If you really want to stick with that R4, ACkits.com probably has what you desire.

Who built it? Compressor Works makes a good new unit.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Thanks for the post. I wasn't aware that the R4 compressors were problematic. Not much fun driving the car in $95-105* weather. I have just been sweating it out as I don't want to put a bunch of miles on my truck. The sanden upgrade sounds good. Trying to decided how much $$$ i want to put into it....

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1985 300D 296,000 miles - Project "Rusty" 1/4 mile in 19.9 sec @ 71mph. It's almost rust free and water proof!

2006 Dodge/Cummins 6-Speed - 670HP 1159ft/lbs

Did you remove the belt and spin the pulley? Are you sure the clutch plate isn't dragging on the pulley?

The bearing is replaceable, it is pressed into the pulley and staked to keep it there. The R4 is a GM / Harrison built compressor so there are bound to be tons of pics out there.

You will need a clutch plate puller / installer and snap ring pliers. I haven't done one in years but there are straight forward. Once you get the plate and pulley off , _DO NOT_remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing snout to the compressor, you will blow the freon charge.

When you put it back together, the clutch plate nut is used to draw the clutch plate onto the shaft, the nut is self locking and will never tighten up. If you do turn it until it tightens up, the clutch will be locked on.

Thanks for the reply. I did just remove the belt and the clutch is dragging - it sounded just like a bad bearing! Not sure why it was ok for about a year then started dragging. Is there a way that I can reset the clutch gap?

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1985 300D 296,000 miles - Project "Rusty" 1/4 mile in 19.9 sec @ 71mph. It's almost rust free and water proof!

2006 Dodge/Cummins 6-Speed - 670HP 1159ft/lbs

See if the pulley rocks back and forth enough that it makes the clutch drag, is so that needs fixed.

To adjust clutch clearance, loosen the center clutch nut a few turns and use a clutch plate puller to pull the plate back a bit over spec then use the center nut to pull it to spec. There is a clearance spec for the plate that I don't recall now.

I do know that 0.030" is too much for a Sanden compressor on a Mercedes powered Sterling truck. ( The clutch wore, increased the gap, clutch would not engage, driver pushed on it with a stick, clutch slippage created much heat, bearing locked up. )

If you need to replace the bearing and end up with a made in china bearing, consider cleaning out the Yack fat grease and using something more reliable. Do not fill more than 50 % or so, too much will create drag, heat and failed grease.