OMG..so slipped while reaching in to start my car and my key snapped in half in the ignition...thought if I just put the rest of the key in it would turn but it would not...so now how do I get the half key out of the hole!!!

1998 slk 230

Do a search for " Broken Key Extractor " this is a thin barbed / hook looking device that snags the key.

Some have tried super glue but I wouldn't as that can make more of a mess.

Don't hammer or drill, this will make it more difficult for the lock smith to fix.

Your car will have DAS X anti theft so there will be a chip in the key that needs to match the DAS box and engine computer. Plain short headed " flat" keys are ~ $ 40 at a MB dealer , flip remote keys are more in the $ 160 range.

Locksmith couldnt even do it...is there any way to remove the cylinder in the off position every video i see says it has to be in the accessory position but obviously i cant turn ot

Yes, key must be turned to get the lock cylinder out. There is a hardened pin that needs pressed to remove the cylinder. Some cars have a barbed stem that will only clear the ignition switch if the key is turned. Do any of the vids show a barb on the end of the lock cyl? What you are looking for is a flat stem with a necked down area closest to the lock cyl. This goes into a rectangular slot further preventing cyl removal unless the key is turned.

Worst case you might have to buy a steering column, try car-part.com , this is a nation wide salvage yard search. If you go this route be sure it comes with a key so you can remove the old cylinder and replace it with one that matches your car. The MB dealer can order locks that match your car. And, if you decide to use the replacement column lock, you must remove the RFID antenna , tape in an original key and hide it under the dash so the DAS X anti theft will allow the car to start.

Find another locksmith! The only thing holding the broken key part in place is the spring tension on the lock's leaves. A good locksmith will fashion two shims that can placed on either side of the key's cut-aways. That will allow the leaves to be lifted (fully depressed) and relieve the leaf spring tension on the key's cut-aways. The shim needs to be full height and length with a ramp on their front end and of thin enough material to fit between the key and the lock cylinder opening.

If someone had a Dremel tool and a set of feeler gauges they could probably make them. figure out that thickest shim you can get into the space and then use an abrasive wheel to cut the shim into the proper shape, leave as much of the original shim material to form something of a handle so that you can manipulate the modified portion of the shims into place alongside the key part.

The broken key part should be pretty easy to remove with no tension holding it in place.