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  #16  
Old 11-26-2015, 10:14 AM
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Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnBob View Post
I am sooo beyond being pissed... pls tell me.
You were mentioned here

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #17  
Old 11-26-2015, 11:06 AM
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"No remedy available" is BS.
Check my sig block

THAT single statement only makes me smile when I think of my long term solution.

And quite honestly, no shift in BP at all, not a single point but I thank you for your concern.
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1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
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1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

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  #18  
Old 11-26-2015, 11:30 AM
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...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnBob View Post
...
And quite honestly, no shift in BP at all, not a single point but I thank you for your concern.
I'm glad to hear it!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2015, 01:58 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 187
If you connect the leads from multimeter to both wires you short the circuit out that's why the engine stall, a multimeter is like a jumper wire in amp mode and should be connected in series with the load or circuit. Be carefully when using amp mode you could destroy a computer.
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  #20  
Old 12-04-2015, 03:32 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spit64 View Post
If you connect the leads from multimeter to both wires you short the circuit out that's why the engine stall, a multimeter is like a jumper wire in amp mode and should be connected in series with the load or circuit. Be carefully when using amp mode you could destroy a computer.
Thanks - I realise I'm not very savvy when it come to electricity but I do realise that to measure current I need to connect in series. That's why I bought the expensive test lead.

Since having this stalling when measuring problem I came up with the solution of just connecting the ends of the cable with a loop of wire and then using a clamp meter (which measures with eddy currents I think - or something like that) to measure the current. With the clamp meter arrangement there's a clear path for the system to work with out any of the Heisenberg related drama!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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