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-   -   Help needed finding a part / solution (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=374832)

Stretch 01-11-2016 09:40 AM

Help needed finding a part / solution
 
2 Attachment(s)
G'day Folks,

I get the feeling I'm half way up **** creek with out a paddle!

Throttle valve position sensor is bust. It is meant to give a signal of less than one ohm when it is either in the closed or open (WOT) position. It doesn't - it gives more than 2 ohms and this generates an ECU error signal.

The switch has part number 126 540 59 45 on it but this is NLA

The other numbers (LK <= seems to be Hella) 04 8062 67 and the VDO number 90 003 081 also give me no joy.

The diameter of the throttle housing is 60mm. I get the impression the majority of the second hand throttle housing with the switch on the second hand market are of a larger diameter which I assume would mean they won't fit my inlet manifold...

...besides all that is wrong with the mechanism is the switch.

Has anyone got any alternative numbers for this switch?

The number starting with a 126 gives me the impression it was used with larger engines in the W126 s-class series (although that isn't always the case).

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1452524008

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1452524008

slk230red 01-11-2016 09:56 AM

I hate it when parts are discontinued. I can get just about any part for my 1971 Corvette, but the '93 190E is getting tougher.

Here's one used on eBay.....

W124 W201 M102 Drosselklappe 1265405945 | eBay

Stretch 01-11-2016 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slk230red (Post 3560367)
I hate it when parts are discontinued. I can get just about any part for my 1971 Corvette, but the '93 190E is getting tougher.

Here's one used on eBay.....

http://rover.ebay.com/ar/1/711-53200...yI%26vxp%3DmtrW124 W201 M102 Drosselklappe 1265405945 | eBay

Thank you I have seen that one.

If I have to spend that much I will have to do so. The problem is that I doubt very much if the sensor has been tested. If that also gives an error then I'm sending stuff back...

...I'd rather have a new sensor.

Still thanks for your help. That page is bookmarked.

Stretch 01-11-2016 11:04 AM

15 minutes with a stanley knife...
 
4 Attachment(s)
...and I cut off the lid to see how complicated the switch is

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1452528946

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1452528946

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1452528946

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1452528946

Bloody rocket science (again).

I'm going to try some contact spray and see if I can get the main contact that spins under a bit more pressure.

I've buggered the top a bit cutting it off but I guess a bit of glue will make that kind of OK again (perhaps)

Dr. Sternschnuppe 01-11-2016 01:25 PM

Available only with throttle valve, p/n 001 140 90 53. :(

126 540 59 45 = 201 540 42 45.

Stretch 01-11-2016 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Sternschnuppe (Post 3560450)
Available only with throttle valve, p/n 001 140 90 53. :(

126 540 59 45 = 201 540 42 45.

Thank you very much for your help with this.

The classic parts site lists the price for 0011409053 for about 200 euros. Seeing the cost / asking price of the second hand ones at more than half this price I think I'd rather splurge for the new part.

Still I'm hoping a bit of contact spray and glue will be all that is needed for now!

Hirnbeiss 01-12-2016 07:05 AM

If that doesn't work, try this:

Drosselklappe 0011409053 1265405945mercedes W201 190E | eBay

Rick76 01-12-2016 10:40 AM

You should be able to clean the contacts and glue it back together.
I use a black epoxy for jobs like this. Makes an almost invisible repair.
Loctite 11C Hysol part number 1373435.
If you get a used replacement, you could drill a small hole and spray some contact cleaner in it. Now that you have one apart you will be able to tell where not to drill.

Stretch 01-12-2016 11:02 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss (Post 3560696)

Thanks.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick76 (Post 3560743)
You should be able to clean the contacts and glue it back together.
I use a black epoxy for jobs like this. Makes an almost invisible repair.
Loctite 11C Hysol part number 1373435.
If you get a used replacement, you could drill a small hole and spray some contact cleaner in it. Now that you have one apart you will be able to tell where not to drill.

Just the man Rick!

I was about to PM you about a part number for pins. You helped me before with a part number for the smaller 1.6mm (?) diameter pins that fit in the X11 diagnostic socket - I was wondering if you have the part number for the larger 4mm diameter pins too...

...because...

...I think summit's up with the wire and the connections at the other end of the sensor.

The parts inside the switch are so clean - and have now been even more cleaned! But the other end is just grotty. I think that's where the resistance in the system is =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1452614521

Stretch 01-12-2016 11:29 AM

I must correct myself. Pin for x11 diagnostic socket is 2.5mm

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/363890-plug-small-x11-diagnostic-socket.html

2.5 mm pin P/N = 011 545 16 28

Stretch 01-12-2016 01:23 PM

I think I've got it!

Mercedes-benz | iAUTO.lt

0135457928

One euro 50 a pop at the dealership

Rick76 01-12-2016 01:45 PM

I also found 003 545 44 26 and a 001 545 38 26 but I don't know which would fit your connector. The female looks like 003 545 26 26. I've never bought the 4mm contacts. I usually pick up a supply at the wrecker taking them from inside the cabin or trunk where they are not corroded.
They might clean up OK with a little Brasso or Silvero on a Q tip and then dielectric grease or one of the specialty greases for electrical connectors.
Tighten the female contact after cleaning if not replacing.

I believe that connector is also used for the blower on a 124 (above the brake booster) and from wires coming from the oil level sensor and starter. Also in blower circuit of MY87 and beyond 126's. These connectors are mounted in the dual firewall so should be corrosion free.

97 SL320 01-12-2016 06:16 PM

That is more of a throttle switch than a throttle position sensor since it turns on and off rather than a variable resistance.

The round connector pins are silver plated, this was MB's solution for making reliable connectors before someone decided to make sealed connectors.

These can be cleaned and a bit of grease put on to seal.

Stretch 01-13-2016 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick76 (Post 3560812)
I also found 003 545 44 26 and a 001 545 38 26 but I don't know which would fit your connector. The female looks like 003 545 26 26. I've never bought the 4mm contacts. I usually pick up a supply at the wrecker taking them from inside the cabin or trunk where they are not corroded.
They might clean up OK with a little Brasso or Silvero on a Q tip and then dielectric grease or one of the specialty greases for electrical connectors.
Tighten the female contact after cleaning if not replacing.

I believe that connector is also used for the blower on a 124 (above the brake booster) and from wires coming from the oil level sensor and starter. Also in blower circuit of MY87 and beyond 126's. These connectors are mounted in the dual firewall so should be corrosion free.

Thanks again Rick. I'll see how I get on with the pins I have already ordered. They should arrive tomorrow.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320 (Post 3560885)
That is more of a throttle switch than a throttle position sensor since it turns on and off rather than a variable resistance.

The round connector pins are silver plated, this was MB's solution for making reliable connectors before someone decided to make sealed connectors.

These can be cleaned and a bit of grease put on to seal.

I'm going to see how I get on with de-soldering as I'm pretty sure the joints are buggered.

97 SL320 01-13-2016 09:40 PM

If for some reason you can't get this switch going again / can't get another one, a couple of micro switches / industrial limit switches would do the job.


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