So i have a mercedes 190e(2.6) and there has been a clunking from the rear for a while so i took a look and the sway-bar mount has rusted away from the body.



Is this a new part avail from mercedes or do i have to fab up a new one? If anyone is parting out a 190e and can help me out, it'll be greatly appreciated.


(this is what its supposed to look like)

anyone ??

Do you have access to a junk yard?

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1990 190E 3.0L

yeah i have 2 junkyards near that have w124's in inventory and one thats 5 hours way has a 190e

Not sure if the w124 will fit. I know a lot of the parts are interchangeable as I've used a bunch of parts from a w124 on my w201, but you may want to double check.

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1990 190E 3.0L

Kofi, call your local MB dealer and ask if you can purchase a new sway bar mount. Check the condition of the other side too.

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Fred Hoelzle

Fab new ones, best check the sub frame mounting point in the front as well. EPC shows a
2016100652 repair sway bar mount (i think), it would require welding anyways, so just as easy to make one.

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Yikes, whats the condition of the rest of the car? I'd be looking it over real good to make sure nothing else super important is about to break off.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
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'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

The rest of the car is pretty rust free actually,

I called the local MB and they have it on back order/special order, and the parts manager isn't sure if its just the lower bracket that they have.

I found a guy locally willing to fab up a new one for $60 but he's on vacation right now.

Ben I don't have a epc subscription so i can't tell if thats the right part number

Im in the Toronto area(Canada) so things like these aren't uncommon, just trying to find an affordable solution

These are welded to the body rail, which is what's actually rusted. What I did with mine was to weld a patch to the rail, completely bridging the hole, then I welded the original mount back after cleaning it up. More bad news... The fuel tank is immediately behind this location, so unless you are totally insane, it will need to be drained and removed before you light off that torch. Also remove all the carpeting and liner material from the trunk, and keep a hose or extinguisher handy.

You may be able to get the bracket from a dealer, but replacing the rail is impossible at any reasonable cost. Patching it the only course of action. And 124 parts won't work here.

The body rail is a critical member. The structure is probably redundant enough to tolerate a patch, you are on thin ice if it goes much further. I think the car is trying to say something ... Its past its prime, time to think about that.

Hmm alright, probably going to with what frank suggested, then procced to sell the car later in the year, currently a student, so ill save some money over the summer and swap my interior, springs and shocks to a clean RUST FREE car. Might get a cosworth from florida or california if the price is right.

Kofi, ask the fab shop tech if he can MIG or TIG weld the patch and mount in place. Either method should produce less heat and mess than SMAW (stick welding). If the rusted area is repaired properly there is no reason to abandon this particular vehicle. It would be irresponsible to sell a vehicle with a safety-related issue to someone else.

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Fred Hoelzle

Oh you thought i was going to sell it without fixing it, no way, this is going to get fixed. The knocking noise it produces is so irritating so i'll get it welded up soon. Ill ask if he can tig weld it. Going to have him reinforce the other side as well and put new bushing in as well.
Been thinking about if i should keep it for the long term or not, I've replaced all four corners(calipers, bearings, shoes, lines etc) fuel system and audio.
Only thing I wanted to do was a full respray to freshen it up?

It's a easy repair, no fancy welding (TIG) needed. And did someone actually say stick welding.. :-)

Drive down to NH, we could probably get you fixed and back on the road in a matter of hours.

Basically cut/trim until you reach clean steel, make patch and bracket then weld on, replace bushings and hardware, cavity wax the inside of the body where the welding took place and undercoat as needed. I'd guess 3-4 hours

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Ben D, I worked in electric generating stations for most of my career and "stick welding" was the term used to describe SMAW. Sorry it that offends you or strikes you as odd, but that's the term the old time welders used 40 years ago.

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Fred Hoelzle