Last evening I was mowing the yard when the lawn mower hit a large rock. The engine began making a "clanking" sound afterwards.

I turned the mower on its side and had a friend look at the blade when I pulled the starter cord. He noticed that the blade was hitting part of the blade guard and a part of the rear metal blade guard was nearly torn off the mower deck! So....I took a flat blade screwdriver and cleaned out a bunch of sticks and stuff buried under the side blade guard which allowed it to return to its normal position. Next, I removed two bolts holding the rear metal blade guard and removed it. It was ripped almost completely in half!

OK, next started the mower. It started but makes a loud "clanking" sound. I went ahead and finished mowing the lawn but determined to look it over today and check out my options. I called a mower shop and asked if they thought it might be either a broken flywheel key or a bent crankshaft. The tech said that normally if it is a broken flywheel key, the engine either won't start or is very very difficult to start because it throws the engine timing off. I asked him if it turns out to be a bent crankshaft could they repair it? He said yes around $120.

I noticed on youtube this hillbilly repair where she takes a sledge hammer and knocks the crankshaft back into round. She does state a disclaimer as to possible safety issues using her method. Does anyone have any experience with performing a 'hillbilly' repair method?

BTW, it is a Tecumseh engine. The Sears Craftsman model number is 917.387323

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubSk0Q2FFGY

Yes you can straighten the crankshaft on the lawn mower. They used to make a tool to do that years ago. It used a mandrel on the shaft and a pressure screw that you drove against the high side with an impact wrench. I suppose you could do the same with a hammer or perhaps even a long thick walled pipe.

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John Roncallo

Found out the lawnmower engine is Tecumseh. Does anyone know if Tecumseh used forged steel or iron for their crankshafts? I'm reading that forged steel is the better candidate for straightening, while ductile cast iron might break and cause the blades to go flying at over 200 MPH!!!

Briggs and Stratton began using ductile cast iron for their crankshafts and advised all dealers to stop straightening crankshafts due to safety concerns.

Did some reading concerning lawnmower designs. Seems some models are designed using a pulley and drive belt to drive the cutting blades. That way, if you hit a rock or other obstacle, you don't suffer a bent crankshaft or broken flywheel key.

I'm now gathering information as to what models offer this feature and will post the models when I know more.

Is this a reel or rotary mower?

" Seems some models are designed using a pulley and drive belt to drive the cutting blades.

I'm now gathering information as to what models offer this feature and will post the models when I know more. [/SIZE][/QUOTE] "


Great.

Maybe put it in the Mower Section..........................................

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A Dalton

Maybe.......no SERIOUSLY put it in a lawnmower forum.
Anziani

I bent be crank on my mower too. Researched what parts i would need and how much time it would take. Cheaper to buy a new engine.

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Here - try this. It's a simple re-power using MB parts (there, that gives this thread some Mercedes relevance)