Was polishing and waxing my 1989 300CE and much to my dismay found some rust, albeit very minor.

The first spots were discovered when I removed the rear licence plate. Two small spots less than the size of pea.


The second area I found was on the driver's door just above the lower plastic cladding. Again the spots are quite small, less than the size of a pea but I would like to get them taken care of since the car is otherwise immaculate.

Discovering the rust makes you realize you can't be complacent when owning an older car. The car isn't driven in the winter and I live on the West Coast where salting and sanding is minimal but lots of rain.

Where else should I check for rust on the underside? I've read subframe mounts and jack points are common points. I checked my jack points last years and they are solid. I sprayed rust check in and around the jack tubes at that time.

Do underbody rust sprays such as rust check actually work?

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1989 300CE

Under the battery tray and the brake booster.

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Peach Parts W124.128 User Group.

80 280SL
85 300SD
87 300TD
92 300D 2.5 Turbo
92 300TE 4Matic

MBZMAN I have just repaired my jacking points .To keep them good you need to remove the jacking rubbers , the ones under the car ,. They are wax injected to start with .But more will keep it in first class condition As for the door i have one on my back door same place.I found the reason why.The check strp wanted replacment .You would know the reason as its a normal thing with this model after a few years .After i removed the door card, i saw the sound deadening pad had come away from the door ,just about half of . So took a better look .The top was dry ,but the bottom was damp .This was the root to the rust scab on the outter door.

Also as Pwo said above .The body under the battery tray is a bad idea .It has this dimple that holds water, and if the car is not used ,then it will lie there for ever till it evaporates..There are drain holes to let water out .If you remove the battery tray to check it out ,paint body under it with wazoil .If you dont like the look of waxoil then an oily rag is as good , but, you will need to do this every year. Another point to check is the gutters both sides at the rear of the boot .If parked on a slope rain water will lie in the area just under the rear window.Mine looks a mess in here but rust protected with waxoil. I may have water drain hole locations if you dont have them.But for the saloon only.

I'm going to remove the left side door cladding to inspect the door more closely and also check the other points that have been raised above.

How hard to remove the door cladding? Any special tools required? I know I will need to order replacement clips to refasten the cladding when I am done.

In terms of fixing the rust spot on the door I'm wondering how to go about touching it up. If I sand it down to bare metal and then prime and touch it up paint will that suffice or do I need to lay down a rust product to ensure the rust does not reappear and spread. I've read reviews on some rust converters and most reviews say they don't work.

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1989 300CE

Its all in techinfo top of the page . Look for spaner sign Do you know about it lots of info in there for you car. Or youtube videos