I've got a noisy rear wheel bearing and will attempt to remove the knuckle assembly and bring it to a machine shop to R&R the wheel bearing.

From the PelicanParts tech article

"You do not need to remove the axle from the wheel hub before you start but I recommend you press the axle out or at least break its hold on the wheel hub before you loosen or remove everything. If you remove the knuckle and the axle is stuck to the hub it is a pain to get a puller on it later. Please see our article on axle removal for further assistance."


Is there enough room/play in the axle shafts to rear differenial to press the axle out of the carrier? I'd hate to press on the axle with the puller and have the axle damage my differential.

Thanks
Jorg

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With the rear suspension arraigned as it appears in the photo, hanging down and unsupported the axle joints are in a position where they are most extended and therefore you have some space available as you collapse them while pushing the axle stub from the hub itself.

There is enough "play" in the axle's joints to allow a puller(being used as a presser!) to budge the axle stub in the wheel carrier but there is not enough space to allow the axle to be completely removed without disconnecting some of the rear suspension links. So you could break it free so to speak and then disconnect the links allowing the wheel carrier to be pulled off the axle stub. There are cautions about over-extending the axle joints in the FSM so it's best not to be pulling on the axle if it remains connected to the diff as you do all this.

If you don't disassemble the rear suspension taking care to only disconnect thing at their non-adjustable ends you will likely need a rear suspension alignment after you put thing back together positioned differently than their original adjusted positions.

You would be wise to check with the machine shop that they are aware and competent to install the bearing as the failure to do so properly will often result in damage to the bearing itself and cause a premature failure before long.

Did you mean that if I only disconnect the non-adjustable ends I shouldn't need a wheel alignment?

Thanks.

Jorg

Yes exactly! Off the top of my head I can't tell which links and which ends, but if the adjustable ends are not disturbed you can bolt it back together and return it to its present state of alignment. It isn't as easy and you might need to obtain or fabricate a tool or two to get it done but that's the way to work it if you can.

The only link that affects alignment is the toe link. Its the one with the eccentric bolt and washer on the body side. If you dont disturb the eccentric end, alignment should be fine. The remaining links are all "fixed", so no special precautions are needed. When I do these axles, I just undo the axle nut and give the end of the axle a sharp hit with a plastic or lead faced hammer to get it loose. Just dont use a steel hammer, or you will maul the threads. When you reassemble, its best to do with the wheel on the ground, but thats tough without a lift.

Thanks. That's exactly what I was looking for.

Jorg