I'm currently trying to remove and replace the water pump in my M110 powered W123. It's a euro market model and has a different long shaft pump than the US 280E. I have two questions.

One, I'm having trouble removing the harmonic damper's 6 bolts. Does anyone have any tricks in removing those 6mm hex allen bolts?

Second, what's the consensus regarding using RTV sealant with the new water pump gaskets? I've read a tech article that says to use it, but if it wasn't used at the factory, I'm hesitant to do so now.

Thanks.

I haven't had to mess with the water pump yet so I can't help you there, as for the RTV as a rule if not used from the factory I don't use it unless there is a major unresolvable problem with the gasket surface. If the gasket surface is in good or reasonably good condition I prefer to use a high quality gasket and no RTV, though I do use a light coat high tack or hylomar in many cases, but usually not for water pumps.

clean the surface good and i use pematex aviation forma gasket works great
may not need to remove dampner just rotate engine and see if there is a notch to line up with bolt and then remove bolts.

I like Permatex No 3, also.

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So, I've been having a really hard time removing the pulley/balancer on the M110. I rounded two of the allen bolt heads and with the help of a couple of cobalt drill bits, cutting fluid and a pneumatic angle drill, I finally got all of the bolts out.

However, after removing all the bolts, while the front A/C pulley fell right off, but the back two pulleys (power steering & alternator) and the large heavy balancer itself are still stuck on:


Someone suggested using a 6" or 8" 3 jaw puller to remove the balancer. Has anyone done this before? Should it come off easy? Will an 8" puller work around that large balancer diameter (and thickness)? Will it be easy to get it back on once pulled off?

Any advice would be very helpful.

I thought a water pump removal would be easy, but this one is turning into a bear.

Thanks,
T. J.