I'm trying to set it up at TDC and turning the socket to clockwise but it feels like getting stuck at about a half turn either clockwise or counterclockwise....

i don't want to break anything and does it take some power to sett it at TDC?

you are turning against the compression of the motor so there is resistance on each stroke.

__________________
0o==o0

James 4:8

"...let us put aside the blindness of mind of those who can conceive of nothing higher than what is known through the senses"
-Saint Gregory Palamas, ---Discourse on the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord God and Savior Jesus Christ


Centrally located in North East Central Pa.

It moved fairly easily until it stop turning though... Should i keep turning clockwise? Will this break the chain by chance?

Wait...does tranny needs to be in the neutral?

Is this about your '47 Massey-Ferguson?

Samething even it is in N position crank stop in 0200

W124

if the viscous clutch is still attached to the motor... will it not turn?

I guess a good question to ask is WHY are you turning it to TDC? Is this a running engine? If so, you should be able to turn it in the direction of normal rotation for days and days with a breaker bar and socket attached to the crank pulley. Remember, this is how the starter motor works...

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
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I'm replacing the head gasket on m104 engine right now due to overheating and severe oil leak when i got it...

i'm using 1/2" 20 inch long ratchet to turn it.... do i need to use a breaker bar to set it to TDC?

Remove the spark plugs so it's easier to turn.

Sixto
83 300SE for sale
98 E320 wagon

all 6 were removed already

If the cams aren't timed and you cant turn the engine then you are binding on the valves. Attempting to continue turning will bend valves.

If you can turn the engine to 40 degrees BTDC you should be able to move the cams until they are close, then go to TDC and time the engine.

__________________

90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

i was assuming everything was still together but you may be on to something......i wonder where he is exactly in the "process".......

__________________
0o==o0

James 4:8

"...let us put aside the blindness of mind of those who can conceive of nothing higher than what is known through the senses"
-Saint Gregory Palamas, ---Discourse on the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord God and Savior Jesus Christ


Centrally located in North East Central Pa.

well, the head is still together.
So far i removed below.

intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, valve cover, thermostat housing, radiator and timing cover oh, the fan as well but viscous clutch still attached with stripped bolt.

Now i'm trying to remove the head and following this instruction below. i've done up to figure 23 which i moved the air pump to side and I guess i could turn the engine to TDC before i remove the tensioner but this is where i get stuck....