Thanks Frank, all these replies have given me more hope. I will be splitting the FD again just to make sure that all the ports are perfectly aligned on the fuel spindle with the FD body as well. I'll find out tomorrow and report.

KE Jetronic is K with an EHA added. The EHA allows additional control of the fuel mixture, but the principle of getting fuel through the distributor via the center metering valve is the same.

If you swap the fuel lines over the drivers valve cover the car wont start, just fyi, ive accidently done that that's how I know,

Update: I have rerebuilt FD. I kept questioning my rebuild and think that it's 100%. I finally was able to get my helper (better half) to help me for a few minutes. I found that when I initally tried to start the car after the FD rerebuild, that it tried to start. After additional cranks it wouldn't fire at all. I found that by releasing some fuel pressure from the bottom of the FD (through the port pictured, ie. attached) that it would start for a couple of seconds till the fuel pressure built up again. It's definietely an over pressure, I will try to get a pressure reading and update soon. Any advice at this point. I need to know how the fuel pressure is regulated, and if there is a way to adjust or if I have to replace the bosch fuel pressure regulator.

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AA:

1) What is the ambient temperature when trying to start?
2) In the event that you have not done this, use a piece of dowel or other reaching tool to depress the air flow sensor plate while cranking. This will require the cooperation of the aforementioned helper to operate the key switch, while you depress the sensor plate.

From your description above, it seems that there is pressure in the lower chambers of the FD, but not enough in the upper chambers.

Temperature was about 65 or 70 degrees in the shop where it's been sitting.
When the afore mentioned helper was cranking the engine I did just that, I worked the sensor plate up and down, with no change, but whenever I bled off some pressure from the port in previous picture, the engine started rigt up and then quickly died. We did this about a dozen times, this is when I realized I had heard something about having too much pressure to enter the top of the FD. Any ideas on that? I'm getting ready to do down and try blowing compressed air down the fuel tank return line to make sure it isn't clogged.

AA:

The temperature cited is above the cold start injector cut-off temp, so no help there.

If, from sitting a long time, the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is stuck closed, the pressure in the lower chambers will indeed be too high, causing fuel cut-off.
Loosen the return line fitting on the FPR, and cycle the pumps. If nothing leaks out, the regulator is likely stuck.

Okay, this is what I just learned. I broke the fuel return line at the airconditioning hose (why do you cool fuel going back to the tank?)

I took the connections loose at the AC line and tried to blow air back into the tank. I would think that you would be able to do that and hear the air going into the tank etc., but I could not get any air through at 100 psi plus. I took the short fuel return line loose at the AC line that went to the fuel pressure regulator, and ran it into a jar. Voila the car started right up and ran till I shut it off the fuel was filling up the jar! Hurray, now what. Has anyone heard of a return line clogging up like that?

Next, I plan loosening the steel return line st the tank, to try blowing air through it again. I'll report back if I have any luck.

Thanks for the feed back

Interesting development.

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Prost!

Can the EHA be adjusted on the KE-Jetronic, and if so how? Thanks for any info.

The short answer to the above is: yes. There is a caveat; the internal adjustment of the EHA was intended for use during manufacture, rather than in the field, as it is a calibration adjustment of the EHA itself, as opposed to a mixture adjustment of the overall fuel metering system.
The field mixture adjustment is performed with the screw in the tower located in front of the FD.

Thanks Frank, so the adjuster is actually on the FD and not on the EHA itself? I'll have to look for it. Any ideas what to use to flush out plugged fuel return line?

His solution was wire and carb cleaner:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-sl-discussion-forum/351154-fuel-distributor-leak-caused-clogged-return-line-1983-380sl.html

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Prost!

Yes, thanks for the link, I have actually seen that. That is what got me on the trail. I put some carb cleaner in where I broke the line at the AC hose and at the tank. Could not get air pressure from front to back so tried back to front and some started to come through then replugged. Went back to the front and filled the line up with carb cleaner then added pressure, and nothing, then about 15 seconds later heard it start to spit at the tank connection. Added more carb cleaner and wow, gross, any way that line is clear, it looks like I'm going to have to remove the tank to clean. When I opened the tank exit hose to drain the fuel that I had put in after installing new exit hose, I found the fuel exiting just a trickle. It poured out the first time when I replaced the hose. Means that the exit screen plugged up now, so tank cleaning looks imminent and new screen as well. Wow, and our admin wants to increase ethanol to 15% in gas. Man I hope I'm almost over the hill on this. I have too much to do Thanks for all your input EVERYONE

Update after a copious amount of messing with wires, carb cleaner, and air pressure to clean out the clog in tank fuel return line, I looked for a used tank. Very quickly I determined my budget at this point would not accomodate 1100$ (lowest I could find). My drill and jig saw magically appeared and a 7 inch hole miraculously appeared in the top of my tank, directly above the fuel exit hose and collector tank. [I guess I should say that the local radiator repair shop said that the plastic parts inside the tank negated their ability to clean and coat these gas tanks]. Beware if you do such a thing that there is a fuel vent line that comes along the top of the tank, and you do not want to saw through it. I use a high speed dremel like tool to complete the hole.
I was easily able to use some wire to unclog what seems to be a venturi like orifice and bolow air and carb cleaner through the clog cleaning it out. Radiator repair people welded it back on and I reinstalled the tank and hoses.
Voila car started right up and ran. There was a lot of smoke initally and it started to clear up, but I had trouble trying to reset the airplate adjustment. My son had messed with it and I ran the adjustmet to the stop both ways. Are any of you able to tell me how to properly set the airplate, and what it actually does.
Any suggestions welcome. Thanks guys.