I would have to go and look for it if it hasn't ended up in the trash yet.

that was months ago and I bought it from an ebay seller and have since replaced it by a BEHR unit $85 was the damage iirc.

Don't want anything failing on me when i'm on a trip in Canada

I actually use a bent aluminum rod to lock the bearing bracket.

BEHR stuff is quality. Their radiators necks are reinforced and fan clutch slide valves aren't held together by glue

So the URO fan clutch just arrived last night and after reading some posts here I am thinking of purchasing something better.

Here are my choices see attached images. I am leaning toward the Behr.

Suggestions?

Attached Thumbnails

   

Turn the fan by hand when the engine is cold. Then, again when the temp is over 100C. It should be quite stiffer. It sounds like your fan clutch is not functioning properly. Some have added silicone fluid that you can buy from hobby shops, it think, but if the seal is bad it will likely leak out very quickly.

Also, if the fan clutch is good you should definitely hear "fan roar" if you rev then engine to 2000 or more. If you don't hear fan roar at over 100C the clutch is bad.

When cold the fan should keep spinning a bit after engine shutdown. At over 100C when the clutch is fully engaged it should stop quickly.

While idling the mechanical fan doesn't flow much air, even if the clutch is fully tightened, which is why these cars have auxiliary electric fan(s). (My 190E 2.6 has two that are smaller diameter than the single electric fan on your 300E.)

Running the A/C in low speed stop and go traffic actually aids cooling because the electric fan(s) engage at low speed from a A/C system pressure switch, and temp may not reach 105C when they engage at high speed.

In hot weather stop and go traffic once the temp get to 105C and the electrics engage I can actually see the temp gage needle moving down to when they shut off at 100C. Then the temp creeps up again fairly quickly and they engage again, so the "duty cycle is probably close to 50 percent.

That's typically how modern engine cooling systems work, however, especially on FWD vehicles with "sidewinder" drive trains, there is no mechanical fan... just one or two electrics. The other issue is that most modern cars don't have temp gages, only an overheat light, so most owners have no idea what coolant temp actually is and may even be oblivious to failed electric fans until the "engine temp" light illuminates or coolant is expelled and steam rises from the engine compartment.

Duke

Folks might be surprised to know that many of our parts come off the same production lines as some of the "big" brands - including B***.

We sell almost 150 of these clutches annually, and only two were returned as "defective" (which often isn't always the case, sometimes someone wants to return a part and just says that) in the last year. The 5-star reviews on A***** for this clutch are also a good indicator.

Will PM you, we'll make it right.

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URO Parts online catalog: https://apaindustries.com/catalog

For what its worth, no one on my Volvo forum uses URO parts either. I DO have URO trunk struts on my 1999 C70 Cabrio, they have worked just fine for years. But I'd not ever use URO for anything even remotely critical. I also understand ones' need to economize.

Appreciate the support from URO.

Does this part (1032000422U) come off the same production line as B***?

If the fan clutch fails prematurely will you cover the cost of labor?

The cost difference compared to the B*** is $35, I am thinking or returning the URO and getting the B***.

After I drove to work today I turned off the car, the coolant temp was in the low 90s C. I spun the fan by hand and it spins at the exact rate as when cold, (about 1-1/2 turns before it comes to a stop)

So it is confirmed bad.

No I just need to decide if I should return the URO fan clutch I just bought and get a BEHR or keep the URO.

Naturally we don't have access to contracts between our competitors and the manufacturing firms they buy from, but at trade shows we routinely view competitor's products and recognize that they're the same as ours. There are only so many manufacturing companies producing expansion tanks, or relays, etc. With laser logo application or swappable inserts in injection molds, it's easy for a manufacturing company to private label the same item for several brands.

Looking at the photos, it appears that the B*** fan clutch isn't the same as ours.

Officially our 2-year, unlimited mileage warranty doesn't cover labor or incidental expenses, but we do consider a variety of factors when evaluating warranty requests. Sometimes if a customer no longer needs a warranty replacement item (they already replaced it), we're happy to substitute other URO item(s) of similar value that they can use, as reimbursement.

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URO Parts online catalog: https://apaindustries.com/catalog

It's a pretty easy job, but you do need 2 tools to keep it easy. The 1st is something to hold the clutch which Ismalley already gave you a good option. I used a metal rod (about 1/4" in diameter) that I bent the end. The other is an Allen wrench or socket to turn the fan nut. The clearance between the fan and radiator is minimal. I'm not sure, but I think it was an 8mm Allen.

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07 E350 4Matic wagon, 06 S430 4Matic, 99 SLK 230
retired W210 (x3), W124, W126

The fan clutch doesn't really tighten until 100C. My experience is that it acts like and on/off switch rather than tightening slowly as the temp rises.

Let it idle and before temp reaches 100C rev the engine to about 2000-2500 and "feel" the air flow and listen for fan roar. Then let it continue to idle until it's over 100C, but less than 105 when the electric fan engages. You should feel more air flow at 2000-2500 and hear plenty of fan roar.

Shut off the engine and check how much force it takes to turn the fan by hand. It should be much greater than when cold.

Failure of either of the above indicates an inoperative fan clutch.

Duke

HI

It took almost two years, I finally had the URO fan clutch installed today.

Upon startup and pulling out of the shops parking lot I could hear the fan roar a bit, and the car was cold.

I'll update this thread with updates as necessary.

^ Our fan clutches have traditionally been are on the "aggressive" side of the temp/engagement spectrum, which is safer than engaging at too high a temp. Engineering has been slowly working to fine-tune the engagement temp closer to OE, but it's been small running changes in production, and nothing drastic that anyone will probably notice.

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URO Parts online catalog: https://apaindustries.com/catalog