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  #1  
Old 09-04-2019, 01:09 AM
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Engine cranks but won't start

1974 450sl

I replaced the belts and accidently sparked a wrench against possibly the alternator before disconnecting the battery. When I buttoned it all up the engine cranks, fuel pump works, provides fuels from the smell, and spark plug is emitting a spark. It ran for about 2 seconds then died. Never stated up again after that.

The battery is fine. The coil seems to be fine with checking the resistance with a multimeter. The fuel pump comes on and pumps gas. I suspect it might be:
1. a blown fuse - the ones under the dash on passenger side looked fine
2. another fuse box for ignition system - not sure when it is located?
3. Engine Control Unit (ECU) module
4. Electronic Ignition System (EIS) module
5. Fuel Relay switch - no idea where this is located?

I value any feedback and help please?!

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  #2  
Old 09-04-2019, 06:37 AM
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Check for power at the alternator battery terminal, loss of power there should not matter but check anyway. If there is power, your problem is somewhere else.
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2019, 02:12 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Modesto CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1974450sl View Post
1974 450sl

I replaced the belts and accidently sparked a wrench against possibly the alternator before disconnecting the battery. When I buttoned it all up the engine cranks, fuel pump works, provides fuels from the smell, and spark plug is emitting a spark. It ran for about 2 seconds then died. Never started up again after that.

The battery is fine. The coil seems to be fine with checking the resistance with a multimeter. The fuel pump comes on and pumps gas. I suspect it might be:
1. a blown fuse - the ones under the dash on passenger side looked fine
2. another fuse box for ignition system - not sure when it is located?
3. Engine Control Unit (ECU) module
4. Electronic Ignition System (EIS) module
5. Fuel Relay switch - no idea where this is located?

I value any feedback and help please?!

Step 1) Ensure that there is spark at the spark plugs. Remove a lead from a spark plug, insert another plug in the lead, lay the plug on a metallic part of the engine, crank the engine. Is a spark visible at the plug?
If not, repeat the exercise with the coil lead removed from the dist. cap, but still in the coil.

Before any attempt to diagnose the fuel system, it is necessary that there be no question about the ignition.
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  #4  
Old 09-07-2019, 08:45 PM
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Thanks for your insights gentlemen. Still not sure what's up with the car?

Yes, there is power to the alternator.

Yes, I checked the spark at the plug and it's there.

Suspect it might be a relay. Is there a way to check if it is operating correctly?
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  #5  
Old 09-08-2019, 01:58 AM
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It turns out now that I don't have spark at the plug. I determined the ignition coil was the problem using a simple circuit tester. There was no current through the coil so suspect that I must have fried it by accident.

Thanks for all your inputs!
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2019, 06:15 AM
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Location: Worcestershire in England
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I would say you shorted out the dynamo or alternator and fried the transistors and diodes .
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  #7  
Old 09-12-2019, 02:20 PM
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After replacing the coil with a Bosch part, I checked it with a simple circuit tester and there was barely a dim light indicating not getting much current to the coil.

I will have to look at checking the alternator and dynamo (not sure what this is?). Any ideas on how to check the transistors and diodes?

Grateful for your advice!
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  #8  
Old 09-12-2019, 03:27 PM
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Not sure if the voltage regulator is the problem and how to check it?
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  #9  
Old 09-12-2019, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by optimusprime View Post
I would say you shorted out the dynamo or alternator and fried the transistors and diodes .

?? ? ?? A car will run without an alternator as long as the battery has enough capacity.
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  #10  
Old 09-12-2019, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1974450sl View Post
After replacing the coil with a Bosch part, I checked it with a simple circuit tester and there was barely a dim light indicating not getting much current to the coil.

I will have to look at checking the alternator and dynamo (not sure what this is?). Any ideas on how to check the transistors and diodes?

Grateful for your advice!

A bad alternator ( the part that recharges the battery ) won't prevent a car from running.

We need a wiring diagram for the ignition system on this car to determine what to test next.
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  #11  
Old 09-12-2019, 09:04 PM
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Location: Alhambra California
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97 SL 320 is correct. A non-charging alternator will not prevent an engine from starting. The term alternator and dynamo are interchangeable. Dynamo is an older term. Both an alternator or a dynamo produce current to re-charge the battery.
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2019, 04:04 PM
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I realize that the alternator is not the issue. Thanks.

Here's a wiring schematic for a 450sl I believe:

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  #13  
Old 09-16-2019, 06:11 PM
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I have been trying to diagnosis the ignition system using this schematic. The two resistors are good (0.6 and 0.4 ohm). I traced wires to under the drivers side front wheel well leading to a "metal box" (about 3 x 4 inch) that I suspect is the Transistorized Ignition Module or also referred to Transitor Ignition Unit. Any idea how to determine if this is functioning properly?

I have included a few diagrams from Internet surfing.

Thanks for any insights folks!
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  #15  
Old 09-16-2019, 06:16 PM
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