Hey guys. I've been working on a W108 M113 swap and am running into concern about adding ASR/ABS/BAS or complete disabling if possible.

I have all the electronics either way including a working version of Xentry (used to code new keys and code ME.

Some people simply state to unplug the ABS Pump when they dyno their W210, some say to jumper a pin that'll blow the module (yea, not for me).

I know ill have to run the ABS module in order to receive rear wheel speeds (easy to add ABS rings to axles) but am curious how far I'll have to go.

Looking for valued feedback

Thanks

for a complete disable you can install a microsquirt (get more power)

Considered going stand-alone however I also need to manage the 722.6.

The engine currently starts and fires on a stand, but am running into layers of ABS codes

Someone has to have disabled or muted the ABS.

can be done with OFGEAR controller for 722.6 but it can be pricey (around $1k)

Maybe I should position my question a little different.

Being I have the ME, SAM's, ABS, and Trans controller.

What ABS sensors do I need to run in order for the engine to NOT go in limp mode?

Rear wheel sensor rings can be added to allow the ME/Trans control to understand wheel speed but are front required?

Makes me almost want to buy a W208/210 simply to disconnect and test

Well I went and did it... Ended up picking up an 02 W210 E430 for 1400 bucks. For reference I'll update how and which sensor I was able to disable without impeding in engine/transmission performance. In the event I need to build a simulator/generator, I may test this as well.

Cheers

Thats a lot of power in a W108! Are the other driveline components up to that??

__________________
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'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

If you think about it, the W109 had the M100 6.3. Power was a bit more raw back then.

With-in a week, I've made some decent progress testing with the W210.

If you unplug the ABS Pump (dyno mode)
Yaw and tilt sensor
Steering angle sensor
Both front ABS sensors

The engine and trans will not go into limp and the engine will perform as expected. Based on this, I can run the ESP module with 1-2 rear ABS tone rings to help the trans understand wheel speed sensor and successfully run my swap. I'm going to keep disconnecting pins on the ESP module till it goes into limp mode for simplicity in my wiring.

Engine: ML500 M113 5.0
Trans: CLK430 (Trans control E430)
Rear end, W126 early w/ 2.83 gears (Need to look at SDS and ensure gearing will work)

I'll make another video of the motor running on my stand to prove its possible on a budget

Here is my original while coding my new keys to the EZS/ESL/ME
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBNj1m23Hs0