I recently refreshed my trigger points and since I was doing so, refreshed the whole dizzy, new cap, wires, plugs and Pertronix Ignitor II. Wired up like so:

Ignitor II black wire— junction block on fender (where green condenser wire went)

Ignitor II red wire—-0.4 ohm (resistor?) block on fender

Was running prior, gave two fires, didn’t start, now just cranks

Another curiosity, how the hell do you guys see the timing marks with a light?! I can barely see the little needle indicator thing, let alone the marks on the crank pulley
Any help would be great. Thanks all

Check if you put back the distributor in the right place, and check if the plug wires go to the right cylinders

Sounds like you installed while retaining switchgear. This would be second option in this link except you chose to use Ignitor II. Connect on ignition switch side of 0.4 ohm resistor.
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/pertronix-install-with-and-without-switchgear.1714668/

Christuna has a good point. You need to make sure the #1 cyl *or passenger cam marks) and the Balancer marks on crank are at TDC, then the rotor should be pointing to the mark at about 1 o'clock on rim of distributor. That would be first thing to check.

Seeing you have a new cap, check that it is seated properly and that the rotor hasn't caused any damage to the contacts.

Spin engine and check for spark, perhaps using a spare plug on one of the wires. If you have spark, you may have messed something up with trigger points (Did you install new or "adjust" the existing?) The short burst at start could be fuel just coming from cold start valve. Try carefully spraying some fuel into intake while cranking. If engine keeps running while doing that, then you have a fuel problem.

Pertronix say you must use non copper cored wires with the Pertronix II because it has electronics that can be damaged. For that reason, many of us have used and have had long term success with the Pertronix I (1885) with standard copper cored wires.

To be sure wires are in correct place, I was having similar problem many years ago! http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/1649512-post3.html

If you look down at the right angle, you can locate the pointer for the damper. Use a small flashlight at first. Once you know where to look, the pointer will be visible! Paint a line at TDC and say 10BTDC on the balancer so the marks will be more visible. Easier to get to those for paint from under the car.

Once engine is running, set timing to TDC or even 5degBTDC at 700rpm.

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

One note on setting ignition timing: set it at 3000rpm vacuum disconnected and don't pay attention to idle timing.

The reason is because different distributors have different advance curves and at 3k rpm wrong timing can mean a melted piston or poor fuel economy/power. At idle it doesn't matter that much because it can idle at anywhere from 20 advanced to tdc and it won't do any damage.

The djet distributors use centrifugal weights for advance. If you start at TDC at idle, even at 3000rpm, max advance will be about 30deg. FSM says installation number is 7deg BTDC at idle with no vacuum.

I usually set timing at TDC at idle with vac and then rev to 1500 and then 3000 briefly without vac while checking the advance. I get max of about 27 BTDC. It's a lot easier to adjust the dizzy position at idle

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5