Howdy,

First post, long time lurker. Hope I can get some tips about my W123 A/C compressor.

This is my second '82 W123 300TD. First one never blew cold air and I never messed with A/C. The W123 I'm driving now did blow cold air, which my wife liked a great deal. This is my first time messing with A/C and I'm in over my head. I replaced the engine and about everything else in the other car, except for A/C.

I have not drove the car much this summer. I noticed the A/C wasn't working around the beginning of July. In the beginning of August the voltage regulator went. Along with the voltage regulator, I also replaced drive belts because they were worn, and I sorta hoped it might do something to kickstart A/C. I broke the A/C tension bolt when replacing the belt, and mcgiver'd a temp replacement bolt to test recharging system. I also noticed the wiring harness that clips on to A/C was all chewed up, so repaired it with electrical tape.

Belts tensioned correctly, voltage regulator in place, I started the engine, tested recharging system, then turned on A/C. There was a brief squeal, then the engine stopped. I replaced the a/c tension bolt with OEM bolt I bought from Pelican, adjusted the belt bit, engine still stalls when I turn on A/C.


Is the A/C compressor seized? I believe it's the original compressor. The previous owner told me he put a great deal of work to get A/C working. If there is something else I should try before giving up on the A/C (to my wife's dismay), or start looking at replacing the compressor?

I already ordered a new CONTITECH belt, because the belt on there now, i found in the trunk, unmarked. Kinda doubt this belt will help, but open to any suggestions.

-Thanks!

With cold engine off reach down and try to turn the "inner" part of the ac compressor pulley. If it won't turn compressor is locked up. Plan on taking everything apart and flushing blowing out all the lines, evap and condenser. Add oil to compressor, spin by hand on the bench install, vacuum and charge and it should be good to go. Do you know if it was on r12 or r134? Do the ac fittings look to be the same size as say a 1998 E300? If the larger fittings then probably r134.

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Jim

Sounds exactly like what happened to me years ago. Got a squeal when starting the engine. It ran for a few seconds and then went off. Then the starter was not able to turn over the engine. I had to cut the belt to the AC compressor before it would turn over. Started it up fine and drove home.
Replaced the compressor later. 1981 300SD

The R4 compressors are known to fail. When I had my w123, I bought a Hancock Industries brand new R4. New drier and expansion valve as well. Did a full system flush as well. Used the 134a refrigerant and BG FridgiQuite oil. Noticed in city traffic, the compressor would stop turning, but the clutch stayed engaged, burning the clutch and the bearing. Replaced those, then swapped out the 134a for Duracool. Big difference. Less head pressure. That ended the problem I had. It also had cooler air out of the vents.

Now, if you are going to use Rollguy's Sanden set up and get a parallel flow condenser, stay with the 134.

Duracool works well for me. I even run it in my w124. YMMV.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D