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  #1  
Old 08-04-2022, 11:48 PM
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Thank you again for your help. I'll try the alternate method you described.

The problem is related to the distance not closing in my opinion - this stud was already in the knuckle. As stated, I have done the LCA replacement procedure and the whole predicament is related to the later pinch bolt replacement. A simple 5 minute job that turned into this nightmare.

I could put a breaker through the spring perch, however now I have a compressor installed. Putting anything through the perch means I have to get rid of that compressor. The method you suggested is probably a better safety alternative tho.
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Old 08-05-2022, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJ_Ghukasian View Post
Further attempts to get the stud into the knuckle have been unsuccessful - I think the jackstand is not close enough to the ball joint - please see attached picture. Regardless of assumed strategy (car on jackstands + jacking up the LCA, jackstand under LCA and lowering the vehicle on the jack, all combined with diagonal jacking to shift the weight forwards), the stud does not go further into the knuckle. I have of course changed the position of the knuckle relative to the stud multiple times, even got it at the right angle, all to no avail.

I am considering two scenarios:

1) Loosen the sleeve further (I did pry it open some and cleaned out the sealant that I have applied during the previous installation) and loosen the LCA bushing bolts - I don't think they exert that much force on the assembly, but l'm theorising that this might give that small bit of upward movement I am lacking here.

2) Jack the LCA up, remove the tyre, put a jackstand much closer to the ball joint and CAREFULLY lower the jack. Obviously, I am a little hesitant about this option.^

Thank you for all the help so far, further suggestions are most appreciated.
According to this picture, you have the spindle hanging at full stroke of the strut which means it wont go further down unless you undo the strut hat from the top.

You need to also move/kick the spindle/tire assembly a bit outwards so the balljoint stud can get into its hole, as of now the wheel is sitting too inwards to the stud and is binding. use a 2x4 to move the wheel a bit outwards and upwards against the strut pressure and then reseat it on the stud, once it aligns it will slide in.

the pinch has a shim in it to prevent overtightening unless yours is missing. you never need to spread the pinch on a W124.
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Old 08-06-2022, 07:09 PM
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Undoing the strut top worked to resolve this situation and I was able to finally wrestle the stud in - once again, many thanks to everyone for all of your great advice and help!
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Old 08-06-2022, 08:03 PM
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Good news...forum input (not mine btw) and your persistence won the battle!
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Old 08-05-2022, 12:12 AM
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Are you inside a garage? If it were me I would consider bracing something like a 4x4 to the ceiling above to prevent the whole vehicle from lifting and allowing all the force from the jacking to be transferred to closing the gap
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Old 08-05-2022, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
Are you inside a garage? If it were me I would consider bracing something like a 4x4 to the ceiling above to prevent the whole vehicle from lifting and allowing all the force from the jacking to be transferred to closing the gap
Yes, I am in a garage. That's quite a brilliant idea- let's say I brace a 4x4 to the ceiling (a little tricky but doable) - what do I rest it against and how do I prevent bodywork damage? I imagine simple dampening with foam/blankets will not suffice with the forces at play.
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Old 08-05-2022, 01:23 AM
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KJ:
Inasmuch as the lower arm is reluctant to rise enough to allow the stud to enter the knuckle, can you arrange to lower the knuckle by loosening/unbolting the top of the strut?
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Old 08-05-2022, 07:17 AM
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Maybe the the top of the strut mount
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