I posted in another thread about my issues with the camshaft magnet and noise when it was energized. I fixed the noise problem but still having an issue.

I am still getting code 24 on Pin 4 ("Left adjustable camshaft timing solenoid (Y49/1) , open or short circuit"). I verified that the magnet is working manually as when I apply 12v to the magnet the engine dies. The issue I fixed was when the cam magnet was plugged in, the engine would rattle very badly when (I assume) the magnet was being energized. When I had the cam magnet unplugged, the noise did not appear, so I assumed the magnet was providing the signal back to the ECU.

After I put the car back together, I drove it a short distance and then re-checked the codes on pin 4. I am still getting the code 24, and also code 22 for an O2 sensor heater, open or short circuit. I cannot clear the codes on this pin with the scanner.

Do I need to drive the car a certain amount of times for code 24 to be cleared? If the code continues I will check voltage on the wires at 3,000 rpm (not under load) to see what it does.

Any other suggestions?

Update: Drove the car to work and home and it drove decent other than the rough idle and running rich problem. Checked the codes and code 24 still persists.

1. I checked the advance sleeve under the solenoid by pulling it in the direction the solenoid would pull it and the engine dies. So the cam portion is working.

2. I reinstalled the cam magnet and put 12v to it and the engine dies. The cam magnet is functioning.

3. I tested the wires when plugged onto the cam magnet and at 3,000 RPM, not under load, I get around 12v and then it drops to around 9v as the RPMs go up from there. The wires going to the solenoid are operational.

Why in the world do I still have code 24 on pin 4?

I'm sitting here wondering if the cam timing is set correctly?

__________________
Jim

It is. Originally I was having an issue with a loud rattle when the cam magnet was energized. I removed the upper timing cover, reset the timing chain, and retarded the advance cam (turning clockwise) before reinstalling the chain. Then I reinstalled the upper cover and upper timing chain guide, followed by reinstalling the chain tensioner and everything else. Rattle is gone. So now it seems that by the tests I conducted, there is a signal at the wire on the cam magnet, and the cam magnet is operating, and the cam does advance when operated manually. The car drives really well and seems to have good power (at least better than when I bought it!) What I can't figure out is why the ECU is not clearing the code and I'm wondering if I have to drive the car several times before this happens.

The other issue I am having is the car is running rich and has very poor idle. Also it is hard to start at times. I also have an O2 sensor heater code on pin 4, so I'm wondering if that is the problem. I don't have any other codes as to the CMP or the CKP and I hate to replace those if not needed. I've checked the fuel pressure regulator and do not see any fuel dripping out. I also replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil (all Bosch except the wires and for those I used Karlyn). So, I'm kind of at a loss as to what to check next.

Perform a leakdown test , maybe your valves are leaking ie slightly bent from timing off that would explain bad idle and hard to start ( rich smell)

If you don't have the equipment just have a reputable shop do it ir rent an air compressor and gauges and do it yourself should be under 5 % leakage lower the better and perform compression test 140 to 180 would be ok under 110 definitely bad

Well, it appears that code 24 on pin four has disappeared and the car is driving really well, other than the idle and running rich issue which I’ve addressed in another thread because I think it has to do with a missing O2 sensor.