Please help me, I am gonna shoot myself.

Just finished three month project and jumped started car by hooking battery cables up backwards.

I can't believe I did this, I jump cars all the time, see signature. And I screw up on my Mercedes.

My ABS and ASR lights now stay on, car does start and run though.

Please help me identify what I broke and how to fix it. Looked at fuzes and did not see any that had fried. I must have fried something else.

Please help me understand what I did to my car and how to fix what I broke to turn the lights on.

I can't be the only one who has done this?? Am I?? Oh god I should be shot!!!!

Thanks,
Joel

thanks for the extreemly fast response. I have been doing a frantic search on the subject and found some references to the OVP.

Man, I hope that is what it is.

I was thinking for fun I might drain the engine oil and coolant before I take off for the holiday weekend's 200 mile drive.

Sometimes I can't believe how foolish I can be.

ARRRRR,
Joel

Sounds like that'll fix it to me too, Joel. It's behind the cheesy black plastic panel behind the battery. It's got a clear flip open lid on top. There is a red plastic fuse under there, a fuse like GM uses, not like the fuses in the fuse box. Check that fuse.

Gilly

__________________
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Agreed -- OVP fuse (ABS light is a tell-tale sign). It's a 10A fuse -- as Gilly said, like a GM-type fuse, not the bullet type in the MB fuse box.

Good Luck!

Brian16V

Thanks guys, you were correct as usual, I have an OVP with two 10amp fuzes on the top. Opened plastic cover, pulled fuzes and one was blown. The little rubber gasket that lines the lid fell apart when I opened the little clear door. I am thinking not a big deal?? I doubt I could get just the little rubber seal??

Yesterday was just one of those days, could not find my belt in the morning and fried my car at night.

Of course I screwed something up on my 89 Nissan that I used to jump the car with. Whines when in drive, I'll dig through the shop manual and figure that one out this weekend.

Nothing as frustrating as shooting yourself in the foot.

Thanks again guys, saved me a lot of lost sleep,
Sincerely,
Joel

As an aside...

All electronic modules designed by automakers should have reverse battery protection built-in.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Check the diodes in the alternator on your Nissan
I had a car that would whine and the pitch would vary with the RPM. It was one bad diode out of the matrix. Depending on how your regulator is constructed you may be able to replace just the diode.

__________________
Dave
88 300E 250K Sold
2000 C230K Totaled @104K
2003 ML320 156K Sold
2009 E350 4Matic Sport 46K Sold
2011 ML350 60K Sold
2014 GLK350 46k
2012 GL450 55K

Hi Dave (same name as my brother),

Thanks for the note. I must admit I threw out the statement about the Nissan with hopes someone might have something to suggest.

The whine seems to only happen when I put the car in gear (automatic) not sure why that would have impact (other than something electrical with the tranny??).

Of course the killer is, I just put a new alternator into the car last month. Instead of using the 87 nissan which is in the driveway collecting dust (and rust), I used my current daily driver (untill 300E is fixed).

I was thinking of running my foot over next.

Thanks Dave,
Joel

I feel your pain.
I did the same thing last winter (embarassed to admit, but it was dark, and raining, and doh!!).
In my case this fried the Alternator itself, melted the Alternator harness(at and near the Alternator connector), and killed the Stereo.

Also blew the OVP fuse.
Luckily (thanks OVP!), that was the extent of the damage.

Suggestions:
1) Check the output of your Alternator to verify it is still charging.
2) Check the condition of the Alternator harness to make sure it did not melt to the point where it could short out.

Sorry, and best of luck...

__________________
1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

Great note. I will follow-up on all you've listed. I really hope I did not fry anything, but would not surprise me. I'll hook up the old volt-meter tonight and run through the other items.

It's things like this that drive you nuts.

I will diagnose the other car too, smelled smoke during jump, just not sure from which car.

Grrrrrrrr,
Joel