My AC isn't working (not getting cold), but there is air coming out of the vents. I'd like to find out how to troubleshoot the problem... i.e. check which parts should be making noise and/or feel like it's running (please describe locations).

I was told by my brother that it's SUPPOSED to be converted to the new type of AC... i.e. non-FREON... hope it's not a law in CA.

I'd like to do some prelim troubleshooting before I have a mechanic look at it so I don't get zapped.....

thanks.....

I hope I am wrong but if it has the original evaporator, chances are, it is probably leaking. Check the freon level and check if the AC compressor is coming on.
Also do a search, the AC in the early 124's is a BIG problem and BIG $$$

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J.H.
'86 300E

Would you suggest just converting to non-freon since it just might cost me the dough?

thanks....

There are some people who says you should stay with R12 and some people go with r134. It is your choice.
I did convert to r134 no because of the price but the uncertain availability in the future. When you replace the evaporator the cost of the freon is not too bad and the system has to be open and evacuated so, why not do it?.
I live in Florida and the cooling with r134 is OK. The main thing is you have to have a properly "working" system.
You will hear different arguments but the final decision will be yours. Do some research and then go for it!
Good luck.

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J.H.
'86 300E

To begin with it is not required that you convert to r134, which is still by the way called freon. Also it is not true that the r12 supply in the future is uncertain. There is plenty of R12 and there is less demand for the stuff with every passing day. This is because the cars requiring it are at least ten years old now and starting to hit the wrecking yard.

Although they no longer produce it, there is an ample supply on the shelf plus much of it that is being recovered and recycled.

The second myth to be disspelled as far as the 124 a/c goes is that if there's something wrong it must be the evaporator. This is not true, it is very possible that there is a leak of another type or location.

Myth number three is that 134 works okay in a 124 car. This is true to some extent because it will indeed make the system blow cold air. It does, however, cause the system to lose capacity and the 124 a/c is marginal in capacity even with R12.

Now that we've cut through some of the myths that are floating around, let's start troubleshooting your car. The first thing you should do is start it up and turn on the a/c with the middle button and the top fan button. Give it two or three minutes at about 1500 RPM and then look at the sight glass located on the filter drier just behind the drivers side headlight. Are there bubbles running through it. If there are not, look at the a/c compressor clutch on the front, bottom of the engine near the filter drier to ensure that everything is turning. If everything is turning and the sight glass is clear then your system has adequate refrigerant.

If the a/c clutch is turning and there are bubbles flowing through the sight glass, then the system is low on refrigerant. In this case, you need to find the leak, fix the leak and recharge with R12. Another myth that has yet been mentioned in this thread is that R12 is $100 per can. It can be had for $29 per can, but only by someone with 609 certification.

The other scenario is that the a/c clutch will not kick in. In this case you are probably low on refrigerant. There is a pressure switch that prevents the clutch from kicking in under these conditions to save the compressor from damage.

So, do the sightglass test, post the results and we'll take it from there.

Good luck,

Sounds like you are in the same boat I am. The wifes 88'TE lost it's charge. Had it recharged, but it went down again in about 48 hrs. (compressor would not come on). Had both sniffer and dye tests done and isolated the evap. as the leak. 2k to have it replaced (w/vac elements).

I considered going with a Cryoseal type product as a temporary fix, but my leak is to large (will not hold vac.). You may want to consider this option if your leak is small. Have the system tested (must hold a vacuum at 25" for 5 min.)

I would do this job myself, however I do not have the time this month and my wife is baking (we live in SC).

My system is converted to r134 (previous owner) and I get 34 degrees at the vent with a full charge.

Ed C

Like I said, you will hear different opinions. Do a search on the amount of problems people had with the AC and come out with you own conclusions.
A lot of things can be wrong with your AC but, follow the statistics. Math is math. NO myth there.

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J.H.
'86 300E

Don't misunderstand me. There certainly is a good chance that the evaporator is the culprit. I'm only saying that it is not a given that this is where you will find the leak. Proceeding as if the evaporator is leaking without testing to verify that fact would be a mistake.

Have a great day,