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#1
10-03-2002, 09:01 PM
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83 380 SEL Brake problems, Help
Hi I have a friend who have a 83 380 SEL and have brake problems. He change the brake master cylinder, the pads are new, he also have new brake lines, but the car wont stop if you hit the brake pedal. also note that the booster if fine because the pedal feels fine. And if you hit the brake pedal hard only the front brake works and if he just brake normal the car wont stop. The pedal feels fine and do not go all the way to the floor.Thanks in advance
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#3
10-05-2002, 11:16 AM
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Was the master cylinder bench bled prior to installation and were the brake properly bled upon completion of master cylinder and hose replacements?
Make sure when bleeding the brakes that you keep the resevoir topped up, other wise the rear chamber will run dry and you'll do nothing but pump air to the rear brakes.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP  Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum.
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#5
10-29-2002, 08:08 PM
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When you got the new MC did it come with a new gasket that goes between the booster and the MC? If it didn't did you remember to pull the old one off and install it on the pushrod?
I did that once. My brakes were worse, and my idle would go up when I pushed the brake. It took me about half an hour to figure out what the hell was going on!
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1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new) 1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore) 1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have) 1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold
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#6
10-29-2002, 08:22 PM
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There are several possibilities here.
First, I would jack up one corner at a time and see if the brakes are doing anything. If you have good pedal and nothing happens at the wheels, you have either scary bad brake hoses (check for swelling) or bad calipers. A classic "neglect" syndrome on MB brakes is to fail to replace the rotors when they get thin -- about every third pad change. This lets the backing plate on the pads hit the cross spring, and cock, since they can only move at the bottom. Eventually, they stick, and cause the calipers to overheat. This makes the brakes even worse -- no pad at all. I cannot imagine that you got the pads in wrong on this car, so I think we can ignore that possibility. How hard was it to move the pistons back? Very difficult, or did the just slide back with a gentle pry? Did you clean all the rust and brake dust out of the pad slot and lubricate the back and sides of the backing plate with antiseize? Do you have OEM pads (don't use aftermarket ones, they are endless trouble). Did you do front and rear pads? Are the rotors in decent shape -- that is, flat, or mostly flat, no bit waves and no evidence of the center being thinner than the outer edge? Were the old pads touching the antirattle cross spring? It is entirely possible that the rotors a worn in a taper if the old pads were up against the cross spring, so that the new pads are only touching at the outer edge. If this is the case, you should replace the rotors, they are too thin to machine. I can help more with more info! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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