Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-06-2002, 02:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 75
Rough smooth intermittent idle

Quote:
Rough smooth intermittent idle
In the past I've posted about a rough idle only at startup for 5--10 seconds and then smooth as a kitten.
Well this morning about the third time I started it up and it didn't get smooth. It idled rough like I'm not really sure. The question and problem is a W126 89' model V-8. Does or can the fuel relay and or the fuel filter cause this. When I had a timing chain job done a few months back I asked them to change the fuel filter. I was told the fuel lines looked bad so they didn't want to take the chance and mess with changing the fuel filter. For several times I've tryed something I've never done before over the last week or so. I would turn the key on but not crank it over, just enough to work the fuel pump. Turn the key back for just a second or so and start the engine. It didn't seem to idle as rough before becoming perfectly smooth. Today it would not go away so I got on the Interstate and drove about 10 miles and when I came to a stop at the exit, it was smooth for a few seconds and then rough again like a miss. New Bosch plugs and cap rotor so I'm about 95%sure its fuel delievery problem. By the way this happens even after the car is hot and not just at cold start up. Can a bad fuel rail etc cause this problem. I've read the other threads but none seem to apply to my problem. Thanks everyone for you help and info.

__________________
1989 420SEL 105575 miles
Pearl Black/Grey

1990 Chevrolet E-Cab C-1500
293,000 miles

1989 Olds Toranado Trofeo'
132,000 miles
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-06-2002, 07:29 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
Posts: 4,712
I would have a tech put the ignition system on a scope. If the tech is good, he can see whether it is a fuel or spark related issue.
__________________
Benzmac:
Donnie Drummonds
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 11 YRS
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-06-2002, 09:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 75
Thanks Donnie I was leaning that direction anyway. Besides trying to guess this and that and parts changing can get very expensive.
__________________
1989 420SEL 105575 miles
Pearl Black/Grey

1990 Chevrolet E-Cab C-1500
293,000 miles

1989 Olds Toranado Trofeo'
132,000 miles
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-06-2002, 09:55 PM
Q Q is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 839
Trust me on this one. Same thing happened to me not too long ago. After it did the rough idle thing for a while, it started to cut out completely on me every once in a while. Finally, it stopped all together.

I did my homework and started diagnosing the problem. Turned out to be the fuel pump relay. I was able to resolder three broken solder joints on mine and the problem is now gone.

If the car ever shuts down on you and will not start, look around on the forum for info on it. If you have the manual, it explains how to diagnose it too. I found that by jumpering two pins on the relay socket, I could bypass it. When bypassed, the car started right up.

Good luck
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-06-2002, 10:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 75
Funny you say that because in the back of my mind I was thinking about that today and called and got a price on a new one. I've heard of others solder them and fixin the problem. Thanks for the info.

Keith D
__________________
1989 420SEL 105575 miles
Pearl Black/Grey

1990 Chevrolet E-Cab C-1500
293,000 miles

1989 Olds Toranado Trofeo'
132,000 miles
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-07-2002, 11:04 AM
Q Q is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 839
Soldering it was sooo easy. The pins you need to solder (the legs of the biggest relay) are so big that even Mr. Magoo could do the job. The hardest part for me was getting the cover back on.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-07-2002, 12:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 75
Thanks alot. I guess that is straightforward enough. I take it that age and or vibration can cause these breaks and soldering them back is no biggie. Thats a lot cheaper than a new unit for sure. It is behind a black box type cover, behind the battery area in the firewall on the passenger side correct? Thanks much

Keith D
__________________
1989 420SEL 105575 miles
Pearl Black/Grey

1990 Chevrolet E-Cab C-1500
293,000 miles

1989 Olds Toranado Trofeo'
132,000 miles
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-07-2002, 12:31 PM
Q Q is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 839
On my 85 380SE, it is on the drivers side under the fuse cover. It was black and in the rear-most drivers-side corner position. Maybe yours is in a different location.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page