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#16
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I have an extra idle control valve but it's for a 85 190E 2.3, I don't know if that's the same thing as on yours. I got it for free from my mech as a replacement, but the original was working as well, so I cleaned up both of them and they are like new
xp |
#17
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xp190,
I have no idea if yours will work on mine. I will know for sure when my parts catalog arrives and I can compare parts numbers. I will let you know. thanks In response to iluvmils, this would be esay but I have a question my idle in D or R is pretty much perfect would i not see a problem here if it was the throttle valve switch. m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) Last edited by mhingram; 12-29-2002 at 08:15 PM. |
#18
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Martin, probably true, but the switch is so easy to test,why not?
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#19
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iluvmils,
True actually, I am going to try checking that and also air leaks around the injector. By the way anyone got a good tester idle control valve I can borrow aswell. I promise to return it! m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#20
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xp190, What part number is yours According to my parts manual mine is 0001411625 i believe yours is 0001411725 so they are not the same but thanks for the offer.
m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#21
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I got 0001411725
close but no match sorry xp |
#22
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idle control valve
Had similar problems with my 85 380 SE, but solved them by:
1. starting warm car which idled at 1600 rpm, spraying brake cleaner around manifold, injectors, etc. to see if idle would change. It did not, so good chance there are no air leaks. 2. Checked tiny bypass hose on idle control valve, the pulled valve and cleaned it with contact cleaner (amazing what black goop came out). 3. Reassembled it, but still no change in high idle. 4. Stopped car, checked voltage with ignition switched on (but car not running) at plug to idle control valve, 11.47 volts, but no "click" when I snapped connector onto valve. hmmm, is valve no good? 5. Yanked idle control computer box, jumped contacts 1 and as well as 4 and 5 at same time (as per MB troubleshooting instructions) with ignition on but car not running. Voila - an audible click from the valve. I guessed it was the computer, pulled the cover with the idle control computer installed (w/o cover - don't touch any metal with it) and twisted it the board. Presto! - smooth idle at 500 rpm. 6. Bought remanufactured board for CDN$350 with warranty. 7. Car is now good. The valve is simple, but I guess anything can fail (usually the computer though). My tech also suggested checking the TPS sensor on the throttle, it has "stops" for idle and full throttle, if it does not read, the idle control computer will not function properly. Good luck. john |
#23
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Excellent troubleshooting technique John! However, your car is equipped with a separate control unit for idle speed control. The 560SEL in question relies on the CIS-E control unit for idle speed control(as well as several other functions). mhingram, keep at it, don't give up!
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#24
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Same holds true for M103 engine?
My car also idles too high (just sits around 1500 rpm) and when calling my mechanic yesterday, the long distance diagnosis was a faulty idle control valve.
Reading through this post I might not need to install a new valve - providing the scenario described in this post would also apply to my M103 engine ('89 300CE). Any potion this forum can mix up to combat my newly gained headache'? If a new valve is indeed required, would any of you have the corresponding part number and an idea what this may cost me to fix? Thanks! |
#25
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To Made in Germany- I don't know the solution so I don't know if it relates to your engine. I also don't know about the cost of the idle control valve. I am guessing very expensive as someone is trying to borrow one to test their car at another string in this forum.
Did your idle go high over a short period of time? Someone suggested a lot of little vacuum leaks around the injectors which would be common over different engines, but I would think that would take quite a while to develop. I have been busy doing brakes, shocks, and trans fluid and filter but plan to get a scope and check waveforms among the three computers. I suspect something is giving it too much air and fuel. I find it interesting that three of us have the same problem in the same vintage cars. Our cars have had plenty of time for connectors to oxidize, that would be a cheap fix if we could find the right connector. Please let me know what happens with your car. |
#26
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made in germany
Idle valves are @$180 give or take $30
m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#27
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m,
Thanks for your response. Gives me an opportunity to budget for this repair! Steve, The idle went up just recently. Not a slow development, but rather from one day to another. I'll take the car in on Monday and let the mechanic run some tests. Hope I do not need to replace the valve. Let you know anyhow.
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1989 300CE (aka Schatzi) 2002 Ford Explorer |
#28
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My father had a lumpy idle early on in his '86 560SEL. The dealer replace the main ground cable with a very, very big one. They said the Computer was getting lumpy current, which was causing the lumpy idle. It fixed the problem.
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David 1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award |
#29
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Made in Germany - did you take your car in and what happened?
Steve |
#30
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Steve,
Took the car in just recently. All it needed was a good cleaning, adjustment and lubrication of the throttle linkage and Viola, she runs like new. Stefan
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1989 300CE (aka Schatzi) 2002 Ford Explorer |
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