I want to replace the center bearing and both flex discs on my drive shaft, can anyone who knows how to do this give me some details on what parts I will need exactly to do this job right? Tools? just the basics or anything special? anything recommended?

I know it's important to get the drive shaft lined up propperly so it does not vibrate, so some directions would also be appreciated

xp

Hi xp , other than a few hand tools to unbolt the flex discs and center bearing bracket you will also need a couple of large wrenches to loosen and collapse the 2 part driveshaft . I used pipe wrenches when I replaced the center bearing and bracket on my 300D . Make sure to tie the two halves of the driveshaft together with bailing wire so they don't slip apart when you are persuading the driveshaft out from it's home . To replace the center bearing you will need a 3 jaw puller as well , I'm not sure if you need a puller to remove the flex discs or not . Good luck .

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Democracy dies in darkness, you have to kick at the darkness till it bleeds daylight

Thanx a lot Kyle

I got a 2 arm puller and I'm getting my dad to bring me the 41mm open end wrench from his work, that's what the service manual states is needed, I'll mark everything before I take it apart just in case it does come apart. I'm doing this cause I think my front flex disc is in terrible shape, I see threads coming out of it, but I'm not sure if it's not something that is caught on it, or if it's the flex disc itself, then the bearing I can hear when I'm driving, im makes a whining sound a low rotations, then you don't hear it anymore, so I know this should be done soon, I don't want to take my car to a mechanic cause they seem to mess one thing up in order to fix another and a good MB shop is quite far away from me from what I read on the forums here, so I figure I'll order the parts, see what the situation is like and do this myself.

xp

Hi xp , you will need a second wrench to go with the 41 mm to hold the shaft , mine wasn't very tight so watch the knuckles . tying it together will ensure that you DON"T end up one spline off like mine which causes a slight vibration at speed .

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Democracy dies in darkness, you have to kick at the darkness till it bleeds daylight

Great I'll do that

I'm gussing that the joint of the two drive shafts is under the exhaust shield which is why I can't see it,

a question though, if I just the the two flex discs and the center bearing, will that be enough to replace everything? should I also get any sleeves or bushings? I see them on fastlane, but not sure how they fit into all this. I know there is a rubber boot which is easy to tear if not careful. And yes I definately do not want my car vibrating, but I was under the impression that you can assemble the shaft back together using the factory marks, and your own to make sure it does vibrate.

xp

on second thought I might be getting those two wrenches, are they both 41mm?

I will probably be getting another 190 so it might come in handy sooner or later, besides the best investment I found is in tools

xp

I think the wrenches are two different sizes but not sure . I tried crescent wrenches but they were too large to fit up in the tunnel so I used a pipe wrench and a large pair of water-pump pliers , it worked . The joint of the driveshaft is at the center-bearing , you should be able to see the wrench pads , although a shield may have to be removed . Buy the mount for the center-bearing as well as new bolts for the mount and flex discs . Good luck

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Democracy dies in darkness, you have to kick at the darkness till it bleeds daylight

If you're getting the 41 mm wrench, you don't need a pipe or Crescent wrench. Use a prybar on the rear driveshaft flange at the flex disc to hold the driveshaft while you turn the wrench. It should not be very tight, just make sure you are loosening and not tightening the nut

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Brian Toscano

I ordered the flex discs from partsbin, I called the dealer and they wanted twice as much for the, then I called an independent parts guy and he wanted even more for aftermarket, but he does have the bearing cheap and support, so those I will get form him. I'm thinking I'll take the parts and go to a shop cause the wrench will cost me the same as the labour, I just gotta make sure it is done right, so I want to examin a few things beforehand. But just in case, would anyone have a link with a pic of the wrench required? I don't want to buy one that won't fit if I do go with that plan.

xp

The driveshaft joint-locking nut is not all that tight. I used a set of plain-old-average slip-joint pliars. You just need to have pliars that will open up wide enough.

Ken300D

You don't need the 41 mm open ended wrench. Just a large Crescent and prybar which are good tools to have anyway. I've removed and installed 124 driveshafts several times this way, my mechanic does it this way, and the 190's aren't really different in this regard.

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Brian Toscano

Great, I think I can picture now how this is done. Just gotta wait for the parts to get here

Thanx everyone.

xp

Don't forget to replace the center bearing support which is a metal frame with rubber insert. The drive shaft pieces have marks cast into each piece which show how to reassemble for balance. Look closely at the ends on either side of the center support bearing.

If your flex discs are crackled between the bolt inserts, they needed to be replaced.

You may have to remove some of the exhuast system (donuts) to get the heat sheild off.

you are better off painting some marks to line the drive shaft up.......those marks you speak of may not be easy or impossible to find....and putting it back together in any manner other than it came appart will cause endless grief.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

The rear flex disk lasts a lot longer than the front, so you may find it doesn't need replacing (yet). Mine was OK, and I was lucky enough to be able to take the new one back to my parts shop.

If you've got excessive vibration, check the transmission mount while you're under the car, and if that's collapsed, the engine mounts probably need changing as well, if you haven't already done them.

good luck

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1987 300e manual 250,000 km (sold)