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#1
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Hi Cap'n -
Any luck with your 300E lately? Wondering how your progress is moving along. I now believe that my FD is the culprit,and when I get some pictures posted for Steve (should be tomorrow) please take a look and see what I am talking about. FD replacement and ruling out the fuel return line as a problem are just about the only things I can do at this point. Would like to hear from you. Your PM folder is jammed up by the way. ![]()
__________________
'87 300E | 2.6 engine Artic White - Navy blue interior, chrome rims, very clean and sharp! 91 300E 89 300E The rest of my collection are just cars and trucks...no more "automobiles"... ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#2
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My lack of expertise in Bosch KEIII diagnostics is now legendary, but I like the term "Capn'ed" to describe generating current for the O2 sensor circuit!!
![]() Here is what I do know, my car needs the wiring harness replaced before I can get any consistency in readings. I know this because when my car is in it's failure mode I can grab the harness near the controller and it will run good. Also with the KOIO I can grab the harness and hear the fuel pumps engage. Now, with that said, MY problems may not be remotely connected with any of the others stated here. StevebFL is the expert here. However, not understanding the system unfortunately prevents me from understanding his commentary. The more I study this system the less I seem to understand it. I'm hoping that the wire harness is the reason my test results are so confounded. I'm an old dog, but I hope I can still learn (and understand) a new trick or two. |
#3
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wireharness
The wire harness is a real pricey bit isn't it? Replacing it is going to take a while too.
When I do any tests on my car I always check all the connection to the CFI computer to make sure a wire is not causing the problems, it takes a bit, but is well worth it and if you were to take a look at my wireharness, you would see that it is not in the best of shapes, but I fix what I can, solder here, some new wire there, as long as the main lines work, the car will work. As for KE, believe it or not, but I think yesterday was the first day I finally understood what all the experts meant when they said that the lmbda voltage should fluctuate when all the controls work correctly. I used a really low quality multimeter set to 10V range, and looking at it closely, I did finally see how the voltage goes up and down, bounces basically, not very fast, but it does, this was also an analog MM, not digital, the digital one tends to miss a few values and then you don't see the pattern. At the same time I had another MM hooked up to the EHA to monitor the current, and sure enough, the current also follows that same pattern, up and down up and down. A beautiful sight on a 19 y/o car ![]() xp
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1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project. |
#4
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Re: wireharness
Quote:
As far as that last statement, that's something I have yet to see. I'll bet that IS a pretty sight though. |
#5
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splicing
Cap'n
Make sure to get some heat shrink tubing for the spliced harness, it will keep it in good shape longer. Don't use the black insulation tape, it falls apart with the least bit of heat and we all know there is plenty of that in the engine bay. I'm sure you'll get the car running ![]() xp
__________________
1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project. |
#6
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![]() Quote:
Cap'n, age is a state of mind.....if you don't mind, it doesn't matter ![]() As for the heat shrink tubing (good idea by the way from XP 190 ![]() ![]() Hope this helps someone to better understand the FD. Quote:
![]() That vote of confidence is always needed, huh Cap'n? If anyone needs more confidence boosting, check out my friend Sean McPheat's site at http://www.confidenceworld.com ![]() Hope this info. helps someone dealing with the same issues. ![]()
__________________
'87 300E | 2.6 engine Artic White - Navy blue interior, chrome rims, very clean and sharp! 91 300E 89 300E The rest of my collection are just cars and trucks...no more "automobiles"... ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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