1989 300e Transmission fluid/filter change:

I purchased the filter and gasket form fast lane and was all set to review the manual on changing the transmission filter when I realized I do not have that module. I found the ATF type and some other tips (draining the torque converter, new washers, etc) using search but still have a few questions for anyone with a manual:

1989 300e 180k miles.

1. How many quarts to refill?

2. Torque specs for torque converter drain plug?

3. Torque specs for drain plug?

4. Torque specs for transmission pan bolts?

5. Is there a way to get the fluid out of the transmission cooler or does it just drain by itself?

6. Also, I just drain (pan and torque converter) and fill through the fluid check tube and it automatically fills the torque converter upon start up?

If anyone has a “….be sure you do this because I didn’t and it was a mistake…” story please share. There are many posts that I have been searching but not too many all inclusive and some have conflicting opinions and not the exact model/year information.

Thanks in advance for the help.

I just replaced mine in an 89SE. I don't have torque specs and I am sure whoever performed it last had none because it was far to tight.

Easy access to the torque converter drain. I was able to turn engine with a screwdriver from the converter.

Mine used 7 1/2 qts Dextron.

Good luck

89nuclear

What do you leverage against on the torque converter. I was looking the other day and I didn't see anything that looked safe enough.

Haasman

__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by john90290
[B]1989 300e Transmission fluid/filter change:

I purchased the filter and gasket form fast lane and was all set to review the manual on changing the transmission filter when I realized I do not have that module. I found the ATF type and some other tips (draining the torque converter, new washers, etc) using search but still have a few questions for anyone with a manual:

1989 300e 180k miles.

1. How many quarts to refill?

CAPACITY IS 6.2 liters (6.5 quarts)

2. Torque specs for torque converter drain plug?

FOR QUESTIONS 2 AND 3, ANSWER IS BOTH 14 Nm (10 ft-lb)

3. Torque specs for drain plug?

4. Torque specs for transmission pan bolts?

TORQUE IS 8Nm (6ft-lb)

INSTALL PAN BOLTS IN SEQUENCE. AND MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, OR THE OIL WILL LEAK PAST THE NEW GASKET.

5. Is there a way to get the fluid out of the transmission cooler or does it just drain by itself?

THERE IS NO MENTION IN THE MANUAL TO TOUCH THE TRANSMISSION COOLER. SO I DON'T TOUCH IT.

--WITH OIL PAN REMOVED, TRANSMISSION FILTER BECOMES VISIBLE. REMOVE FILTER RETAINING SCREWS AT FRONT AND SIDE, BUT LEAVE REAR SCREW IN PLACE UNTIL THE NEXT STEP.

--NOW LOOSEN REAR FILTER RETAINING SCREW ENOUGH SO FILTER HANGS DOWN AT AN ANGLE, ALLOWING EXCESS FLUID IN THE FILTER TO DRAIN INTO DRAIN BUCKET.

--WHEN EXCESS FLUID HAS DRAINED FROM FILTER, REMOVE REAR FILTER SCREW AND DISCARD FILTER.

--INSTALL NEW FILTER USING THREE SCREWS. TIGHTEN SECURELY.

6. Also, I just drain (pan and torque converter) and fill through the fluid check tube and it automatically fills the torque converter upon start up?

AFTER DRAINING ALL THE ATF FLUID, CHANGING THE FILTER, GASKET, CHANGING THE WASHERS IN THE DRAIN PLUG AND TIGHTENING WITH THE ABOVE TORQUES, FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE:

--INSERT FUNNEL INTO DIPSTICK OPENING AND, WITH ENGINE STOPPED, POUR IN 4 LITERS (4.25 QUARTS) OF ATF DEXRON III.

--START ENGINE AND RUN AT IDLE WITH SELECTOR LEVER AT POSITION P.

--WITH ENGINE RUNNING, GRADUALLY ADD ADD'L. ATF UNTIL CAPACITY IS REACHED.

--MOVE SELECTOR LEVER THROUGH POSITIONS R-N-D-N-R, PAUSING IN EACH POSITION FOR SEVERAL SECONDS, THEN RETURN TO POSITION P.

--ALLOW ENGINE TO RUN FOR 15 TO 20 MINUTES, AFTER WHICH TIME TRANSMISSION OIL WILL BE AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE (80 CELSIUS OR 176 FAHRENHEIT).

--CHECK LEVEL OF TRANSMISSION OIL AND CORRECT AS REQUIRED.

HAVE FUN

RV

John 90290,

In addition to my previous post on changing the ATF, you need:


1. 27 mm socket. This is needed to turn the crankshaft until torque converter drain plug is visible through the access hole.

CAUTION: TURN ENGINE ONLY IN ITS NORMAL DIRECTION OF ROTATION (CLOCKWISE FACING THE ENGINE). TURNING AN ENGINE BACKWARDS CAN DAMAGE TIMING COMPONENTS.

You also need to remove the engine compartment lower sound encapsulation cover. This is bec. the crankshaft is accessed easier from below.

2. CAUTION: DO NOT DRAIN ATF IF ENGINE AND/OR TRANSMISSION IS HOT. HOT ATF CAN SCALD.

--PERFORM ATF CHANGE WITH ENGINE STOPPED AND SELECTOR LEVER IN P.

3. You will also need two drain buckets. One for the torque converter drain plug and another for the ATF pan drain plug.

4. You will also need a 5 mm Hex socket to remove the torque converter plug and ATF pan drain plug. I tried the short arm hex key set but I didn't have enough torque. So I was forced to buy the 5mm socket.

These are all I remember.

Good luck.

RV

ako

Thanks for the detailed description. This is very helpful for all.

Haasman

__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Pan bolts should be tightened in a criss-cross patern, not in sequence. Pan gasket won't be compressed evenly if you tighten bolts in sequence. Otherwise, very good post.

Lastly, once you have the torque convertor drainplug situated, mark the harmonic balancer with a little white paint or note down the timing mark so you can find the drainplug easier next time.

Greg
'84 300D
'90 300CE

On my 300SE it did not take a lot to turn the engine to where the torque converter (TC) plug is installed. I just used a regfular screwdriver thru the TC drain plug and used leverage on the TC itself.

Good luck

Anyone got a good additive they could reccommend?