On these engines the bolt is torqued to 450 ft-lbs. I was able to break a socket using this technique, and I won't try it again!! You need two breaker bars; one holding the balancer itself, braced against the frame, and the other on the bolt, with at least a 5-foot cheater bar unless you're really built. I got a Craftsman (Ingersoll-Rand) 600 ft-lb impact driver just to do this job. It was not up to the task.

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Lenny

There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games. --Ernest Hemingway

'10 GL550/'04 BMW 545/'99 BMW 323/'98 ML320/'87 VW GTI (race)

Mercedes has replaced my original balancer part no. 112-035-00-00 with part no. 112-035-13-00 showing 13 design changes to this part since introduced. This was done under the new car warranty just prior to expiration in approximate another month.

Not sure if it is due to the new balancer or if the old balancer was showing signs of coming apart, but the new balancer seems to result in smoother and quieter engine idle.

I waited for the repair and the Mercedes technician was able to replace the balancer in a little less than two hours.

Was the H/D replaced by the same tech that put the belt tensioner on and told you that you didn't know what you were talking about? Like you don't know a thing about a Benz....what a joke!! That is how you make a living but I won't say any more
and let the cat out of the bag!

Tobias MB
4 MBs

I read this thread with great interest since my car sports a 112 035 05 00. I need to point out just because the 3rd set of number in a part have moved fro “00” to “13” has no relative correlation to the number of design changes. This can indicate many different things from left or right to different OE suppliers. Assuming the largest number is the most current is not always the rule that applies when dealing with what version a given part may be.

For example 126 320 05 30 and 126 320 08 30 are different valved shocks for the same application, or 124 820 89 59 and 124 820 90 59 which are left and right headlight assemblies. Things like brake pad changing the 3rd set of number can indicate complete different application like 001 420 06 20 and 001 420 08 20.

Don't know if it is the same tech or even if the new balancer solves the issue, but the bottom line is that there is a new balancer installed that should last as long as the old balancer (38,000 miles) and I should not have to worry about it again for awhile. Contrary to other thoughts on this forum, until they can fix this problem, I am looking at it as a regular maintanence item that needs more attention than spark plugs. My opinion, although personal, is that my 1994 C280 is more reliable than this new stuff that Mercedes is trying to market to us today. While at the dealer they had a new 2004 AMG E-Class for $90,000 that probably still had the harmonic balancer problems we are talking about today. Sorry, but for this price I expect some very real solid engineering that make this vehicle bullet-proof. If not bullet-proof, Mercedes needs to step up to the plate and support their vehicles with uncontested refreshment of parts that are not up to Mercedes perceived quality.

My personal experience reflects that not only that Mercedes needs to address their quality issues, but they need to work on the dealerships that market and support their products. It is getting to be that the dealerships act like any other American brand dealership and do not offer the above and beyond service that has been typical of the past. Yes, this supports the independets who generally offer better service for better prices, but it does nothing for those who buy new and rely upon warranty repairs. In the end, all will lose out because less Mercedes will be sold, the vehicles will be in the scrap-yard at 100,000 miles and the independents will have less vehicles to service.

I expect my 1995 C280 to last reliably until around 180,000 miles. My 2000 ML320 may last reliably unitl around 100,000 miles while I expect the same of my 2003 C230K sport coupe. The bottom line is the manufacturers are all trying to make a vehicle that is reliable to 100,000 miles. After that, it is hard to justify the $75-95/hour that it cost to repair a vehicle today. It is much more efficient to pump these new cars off an automated assembly line than it is to keep them running. My personal opinion is that if you want to drive a Mercedes, it is cheaper to lease them no longer than the new car warranty period and replace them with a new vehicle Mercedes after that.

In the Mercedes parts catalog, there is about 9 revisions. The latest goes from an 09 00 to an 08 00.

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Benzmac:
Donnie Drummonds
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 11 YRS

BenzMac

So you are telling me that an 13-00 part does not exist? What does this say about the Mercedes dealerships that put this part number on their repair invoices? Sounds to me like they are becoming more crooked than Enron!!!! Like I said before, some new car company's will not exist in their present form within the next 10 years. I wonder who this may be.

I'll tell you. We see a lot of these. a LOT. I have put so many of these things on that I can do them in 5 minutes on most cars and it pays an hour. Have them checked. If you see them seperating from the rubber have it changed.

For all of you MClass owner's out there with Harmonic Balancer and other problems here's a link where you can let off a little steam.. http://www.mbusi.com/owner_feedback.html for what its worth.

Well, today after work, I crawled under the vehicle to confirm the part no. and it is a 13-00 suffix as stated on the service invoice. It appears that we are now up to design change number 13.

I sure am thankfull that I had mine replaced and Mercedes picked up the tab under my new car warranty. I am starting to believe that with all the new technology being applied to these vehicles, you have two choices: (1) Lease them for no longer than the new car warranty or (2) purchase them and also purchase the extended warranty offered by Mercedes since you will probably use more than the warranty cost. This is the only way that you will have any kind of peace-of-mind in my opinion.

To clear up the number issue there are currently 4 active part number that are used to correct this problem. 00, 08, 09, 13. There was an 05 at one time but it no longer appears as a valid part number.

Fletch, suffix 00-00 (IS THE PROBLEM). The other three revisions are fine, but replace 112-035-00-00 if you can.

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1999 C280 Sport, 1967 911s Porsche

Grape, Only pointing out that there are 4 part numbers for this item that are currently available from Mercedes.

I have no idea what number is the best design, I have seen them all and can not tell the difference between them. I simply wanted to caution some that are assuming the 3rd set of numbers in a Mercedes part number has anything to do with if the part has or has not been redesigned. The 00-00 is failing because they are the ones on the cars, they have the miles on them, I don’t think anyone should assume the 08 09 13 will last any longer.

This part is clearly a problem, and I think the fact that Mercedes has not actively worked to replace these as a preventative service is a shame. The 112 and 113 air sensors and the fuel tank senders in these cars are also a major problem that Mercedes has not acknowledged. The Mercedes I knew would correct these problems at the first service or sign of failure and often the customer would not have even known the dealership corrected them. It’s clear these type of service levels I remember are no longer in place.

Less rubber in the later designs, i understand what you're saying, just didn't want people to look at their balancers and see the numbers 00-00 and think they were safe. I'm sure that even though that part number is listed in Mercedes parts inventory, you can't order it. I looking at 3 balancers in front of me right now and can't tell the difference between 08-00 09-00 and 13-00, but 00-00 distinctly has more rubber(thicker band) than the other 3.

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1999 C280 Sport, 1967 911s Porsche

I just ordered Dampener part number 112035 0900 and bolt number 006990 7004

What I need now is the tool to hold the dampener in place while removing/installing the bolt. Anyone know where I can find this tool? Part number and or brand will be very helpful. Thanks!