1998 W210 Air Bag removal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

phouse · #1 05-14-2003, 10:58 AM

I need to remove the Cruise Control stalk. Is there anything special about removing the air bag to get at the stalk. Should I disconnect the battery or do something special. Is there anything that I should look out for..?

richunters · #2 05-14-2003, 04:48 PM

I don't know the answer, but I will watch this thread with interest.

I have a problem, the solution of which may involve removing the steering wheel and airbag. My problem is that the turn signal stalk, and the cruise control stalk which moves with the turn signal as a unit, is loose. That unit has excessive play , it rotates tthree quarters of an inch aound the steering column whenever I try to put on the turn signal.

Gilly · #3 05-14-2003, 09:15 PM

What you need to remove the airbag is about a 3" long T30 Torx bit, and the driver for the bit (1/4" driver) and a 1/4"drive ratchet.
MB sells the bit (PN 126-589-10-00), but you can probably buy it elsewhere.
There are small holes in the back of the steering wheel, the long bit is inserted into these holes to remove/loosen the 2 screws holding the airbag to the wheel.
"Every precaution" would seem to include removing the negative battery terminal before removing the airbag. I've never done it and never a problem. If you turn on the ignition switch with the airbag disconnected, you WILL have an SRS warning light later, which will need to be cleared.
You then will need a 10mm(?) allen socket to remove the bolt holding on the steering wheel, although after removing the bolt the wheel will pull right off the shaft, no puller needed.
At this point the steering wheel angle sensor/horn contact spiral needs to be removed. Before removing the steering wheel, make sure the steering wheel is centered (straight ahead position). With the wheel straight ahead, it opens up 2 holes in the horn contact spiral so they are directly over the corresponding screws. DON'T force the contact spiral around, you will ruin it. Remove the 2 screws and pull off the spiral. You can then access the combination switch and/or cruise lever.
Rich, at this point you can tighten the 3 screws holding down the combination switch, this will fix your problem, seen that alot.

Gilly

tdhenning · #4 05-15-2003, 03:22 AM

I just replaced the cruise control switch in my '95 E320 last week. It takes about 2 hours if you have all the tools ready, 10 hours if you dont.

You will definately need the Special Air bag removal Torx #30 bit, but you can't use one bought at your auto store. It requires one about 3 inches long, an airbag antitheft feature - It is MB (P/N 126 589 00 10 00). Your dealer will charge you about $5 and will be able to get it faster than any wholesale parts shop, mine had one in stock. The toughest part of your mission will be removing the countersunk screw. It will require two weightlifters and some energy drinks. You will need a large #10 hex bit to remove the countersunk, and a torque wrench to retighten it to 80 nm.[list=1][*]Straighten your wheels and steering wheel so your wheels are straight forward.[*]Disconnect Battery and shield negative terminal[*]Use special MB tool to remove airbag using the two holes on the rear of the steering wheel[*]Carefully remove airbag, diconnect the one red plug from it, and place it in a safe normal temp area (i.e. trunk, inside house)[*]Remove the two wires coming out of the steering column from the steering wheel, note their locations.[*]Use the 10mm metric Hex bit, a regular socket wrench with an extension, and 2 people to remove the countersunk bolt. One person should sit in the driver's seat to hold the steering wheel in place with all their might. DO NOT USE THE STEERING LOCK AS COUNTERFORCE, YOU WILL BREAK IT. Stand outside the car, keep the wrench level to ensure that you dont strip the bolt, and exert all your energy to remove the sucker.[*]Mark steering wheel installed position in relation to steering shaft if necessary, and remove.[*]Remove black circular cover plate via the two sunk screws through the holes.[*]Remove the 3 screws on the bracket holding the cruise control stalk and combination switch in place.[*]Reverse procedure taking extra care to align steering wheel correctly and tighten the countersunk screw to exactly 80nm. Do not plug the battery back in until the steering wheel is completely reassembled with the airbag in place.

Let me know if you have any specific questions. The exact procedure is fresh in my memory.[/list=1]

MikeTangas · #5 05-15-2003, 03:46 AM

Thomas,

Did you get your cruise stalk situation corrected? I've been pretty busy between work and competition (and traveling) the past few weeks that I sorta forgot about checking out your pictures.

If fact, I'll go take a look now before I hit the rack.

richunters · #6 05-15-2003, 11:27 AM

Thanks. With details provided by Gilly and tdh, i know exactly what to do. Going to get the Torx bit and two weightlifters now.

Gilly · #7 05-15-2003, 05:51 PM

Let us know if you find a local source for the 3" long T30 bit.

Gilly

phouse · #8 05-20-2003, 04:00 PM

I tried that part number at the dealership. First he said that he couldn't sell it to me because it was the air bag removal tool. Then he said that he couldn't find that part number in the system... Wassup!!!????

Peter

tdhenning · #9 05-20-2003, 06:16 PM

All three of my local dealers quoted me on it. The Part # is listed correctly. They probably don't want to sell you the tool because they want the service business. Also, they may think you are planning to go out and steal airbags, but mine sold me one without hesitation. There are also several online stores who sell PN 126 589 00 10 00. Phillip at PartsShop gave me a quote of $7, but it will take 2 weeks seeing that it is special order. That is why I went to my MB dealer, because they can get it direct from the MB wharehouses overnight.

Gilly · #10 05-20-2003, 10:06 PM

I'd recommend at least trying Sears, AutoZone, places like that, before trying the dealer for it.
I'd be surprised if the dealer can get the tool overnight, let me know if you do.

Gilly

phouse · #11 05-21-2003, 09:55 AM

I know why the parts guy couldn't find it.. Gilly had the wrong part # listed in his reply.. I will try the new number today..

Peter

phouse · #12 05-29-2003, 01:17 PM

Hello, all I realized after I removed everything that the cruise control stalk was just snapped out of the socket not broken.. I will include pictures in the next post
Peter

Ray P · #13 05-20-2010, 04:32 PM

This also applies to the 1998 E300 TD, except my problem was the collar that the combination switch and cruise control sw mount on was loose.Just a matter of aligning and tightening the collar and reassembling .I might mention that the bolt that locks the steering wheel on required a 10mm allen and about a 24 inch cheater pipe to break loose!

RichardM98 · #14 05-20-2010, 05:49 PM

A couple of points not mentioned yet -

The steering wheel mounting nut (10mm hex socket head) is installed with industrial thread locker. It may take a butane torch to heat it enough to loosen. If so, beware of fire in the cabin.

Be sure to mark the location of the steering wheel on the spline. If you look closely you'll see two splines missing. One at noon and one a 6 o'clock. Place a felt tip marker in that space and use it to transfer a mark to the other piece. It's easy for the wheel to look straight when reassembling only to find out that it is off one spline as you drive down the blvd. Very annoying.

You can support one of the arms of the steering wheel from below by standing an appropriate length of 2x4 or similar between steering wheel and floor.

Any T30 bit 2 1/2" or longer will work. As mentioned, DO NOT turn on key while air bag is disconnected. Error code will require dealer as I am told. Didn't try to find out. So make sure you have moved the steering wheel (if adjustable) to the appropriate position before disconnecting battery.

The bracket which holds the combination switch (CC and Turn Signal) must be a specific distance from the end of the steering shaft. I have attached a WIS diagram showing the distance and where to measure. If this distance is off, you may have squeaking or grinding sounds as you turn the steering wheel. The critical distance is 'b' in diagram -- from front surface of combination switch mounting bracket to that ridge near the spline. It is 30mm.

Torque for airbag fasteners is 8Nm and for steering wheel mounting bolt is 80Nm. No spec on other fasteners. You may want to put a dab of thread locker on the pinch bolt (phillips) of the combination switch bracket. This often loosens over time so a good preventive maintenance.

This procedure should apply to all W210's. Maybe with slight modifications.

lupin..the..3rd · #15 06-10-2010, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

you WILL have an SRS warning light later, which will need to be cleared.

The SRS warning light just came on, in my '97 E300. Do I have any options for pulling the code, and clearing it, aside from paying the dealer $100+ for this 5-minute job?

I have this VCDS software and cable that I use on on my VW's and Audi's. It allows me to pull/clear codes from things like Climate Control, ABS, Airbags, etc. on those cars - all the stuff that isn't available through generic OBD2. Is there anything similar for Mercedes?

TIA