central locking 85 190e must die - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tunk · #1 06-17-2003, 11:26 AM

hey folks,

I posted a while back on an electrical drain that many of you were nice enough to help me figure out. It turned out that when I removed a fuse controlling the central locking vac pump I was able to see a significant (almost complete) drop in the drain off of the battery with the car off. I had thought that this would cure the problem. Can't remember which fuse this was, 11 or 12 sounds right but the manual is at the house. So here's the question. I had wanted to just get rid of the central locking mech as it never worked right when car was purchased from PO. But now after removing the fuse when I check the trunk its open, so I lock it and then a day later its open again so I lock it etc. The gas cap never locks anymore which is nice IMO. But the darned pump is still working somehow and I can hear it sucking away at my juice when the car is off still. Drives me crazy and leaves me with a dead battery (the car sits for weeks without being ridden now that the bandit is out). question is are there accesible wires leading to this pump that I can disconnect or cut so that this thing finally dies.

Thanks,
CDT

sbourg · #2 06-17-2003, 11:58 AM

The pump is under your rear seat, which pops out with two latches at the front base. The pump is enclosed in foam and inside is access to its plug. The pump will continue running if you have a vacuum leak at any point, and that is the problem.

Steve

tunk · #3 06-19-2003, 09:44 AM

great advice. it is out. If anyone wants this pump you can have it just pay for shipment (and one beer). Lastly, the electrical wires, what's the best thing to do? Is it acceptable to put electrical tape over the connectors? basically not an experienced electrician and don't want to worry about starting a fire because I have live wires under my back seat. so how do I finish this surgery?

Thanks,
CDT

16VAlex · #4 06-20-2003, 09:31 AM

Just tape the plug with electrical tape to cover the plug and you're good to go.
Alex

sbourg · #5 06-20-2003, 10:08 AM

CDT, just a parting thought -

A problem I and many others have run into is worn keys/tumblers for the exterior and ignition locks. My experience is that the problem is worse for the MB design than other makes. One way to reduce wear-and-tear is by installing a keyless entry, which I did. That won't restore the damage to your keys, but it will extend their useful life when they no longer are needed for access.

What you will have to weigh is the cost of repairing your vacuum leaks vs. new coded keys and lock tumblers at some point. Admittedly, I haven't any leaks yet, so the $50 keyless/alarm cost and man-day for installation are a cheap preventative.

Steve

wjm · #6 06-24-2003, 12:27 AM

Steve,

I've seen mention of this key and tumbler problem, but have not been able to figure out how this could have anything to do with the actual operation of the vacuum lock system. If you can explain it to me, it may help me try to determine my lock problem.

Thanks

sbourg · #7 06-25-2003, 11:16 AM

wjm, you are looking for the sophisticated connection, but it's the simple one in this case. Keyless entry means I use a remote to lock and unlock the doors - not the keys. Less wear and tear on the keys, less also then on the tumblers. All I need the keys for is the ignition lock.

The connection here is that for a keyless remote, you need a powered doorlock system you can wire into. Our bottom-end Honda I also did this to, and for that I had to install lock solenoids at all four doors - a real pain. By comparison, the 190E was a breeze, since that step was unnecessary.

Steve