the parts manual for the 127.901 engine shows a splash guard in the pan above the oil pump. Question: would the absence of this part cause high oil consumption due to oil pumping?

Since recieving no replies to the subject post. Perhaps I should clearify that the splash guard I am referring to is not a fairing under the oil pan. It is a metal pan suspended unside the oli pan, above the oil pump, and below the crankshaft.

Sounds like an old windage tray. Racers used them all the time to help keep the oil at the bottom of the pan. Also helped to keep oil off crank and hopefully improve performance slightly. Off roaders liked them because they would keep oil from climbing the side of the pan when at steep side angles. If your rings are ok, I don't think it would make that much difference in oil consumption.

BobK is right on the money!

I have one of these installed in my Bug engine when I did the engine mods.

It was advertised to keep prevent oil starvation during hard cornering...I suspect a potential problem for circle-track cars.

For the most part, going to a deep sump eliminated this issue for race cars (and I got one for the Bug as well), but for production vehicles, the windage tray is still the simplest solution

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Thanks BobK for the info about the windage tray. If this does not contribute to my oil burning problem I am looking elseware.
JW

When you drain the oil, try refilling the pan only to what the manual calls for. No more. Then check the stick. Sometimes I have heard of the wrong stick getting in an engine and people putting in too much oil.
next idea: how's your compression? Valve seals? Is it going to the ground or out the tailpipe? 230Sl is a beautiful car.

Thanks again to you BobK. To answer your Questions! I do not rule out external leakage, however too much smoke is coming from the exhaust and I do not believe it is too rich. Compression is 40 psi on six cylinders with 33433 since rebuild in 1983. The head was done in 1993 with new valves and guides and stem seals. Total miles on the car are 168058. I havent had a chance to check the oil level against the dip stick when filled with the correct amountof oil when I get the car on the ground. At the moment I an waiting for the brake booster to return from rebuilding. Applying the brake allowed air to pass through the booster into the intake plenum. Hard to stop huh.
JW
PS I cant type either. the compression should read 140 psi.

If you are burning oil and notice the stick actually going low, then check the ball studs in the head .. 127/129/130 [ 113] engines are famous for loose ball studs. The threads go down through to the intake runners in the head and one will suspect valve seals, but it can be studs loose. Thread dope solves the problem.....
But , if you are getting smoke and the dip does not show a decrease, than check a couple of other things. First , is it an auto trans??? if so, you can have a ruptured diaphragm in the trans modulator... does the tranny fluid go down ???? ....next,I noticed you have booster problem... well, I have seen brake master rear seals leak and fill the booster housing up with brake fluid, which then gets sucked into the intake and smokes out the exhaust, while, at the same time, ruins the booster and the line check valve. Do you have to add brake fluid often and never see a leak???
On the 130 engine , they have a crankcase oil feed to the FI pump that can also pump oil through a weak FI pump and burn out exhaust...the 230 /250s do not have this, they have their own oil res on the back of the pump ,which you should check periodically.

and finally, I see you have 40 lbs compression... is that a typo ?????

I believe we can rule out brake fluid as the usage in nill. also the transmission is ZF five speed manual.You did catch mu typo as compression is 140 psi. I really like your suggestion to check the ball studs for leaks. Thanks Arthur.

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You can thank me by simply sending that tranny to me ...the more I think about it, I am pretty sure that is causing you ALL your problems..
I will send you back a new booster and a good auto, if you agree to at least pay for s/h...

Arthur, no deal on the tranny. About the ball studs I find they appear tight BUT the one for the #4 intake rocker opens through the head above the #4 spark plug pocket and oil is visible coming through the threads of the ball stud. Although the other five intake studs are not leaking, the six ball studs for the exhaust valves may leak. They too appear tight, but they open into the inlet ports which are under vacuum. I guess I will have tu pull the head to seal leaking ball studs.

Don't have to pull the head.... remove them, clean and reseal with a good thread dope/sealer...