When in doubt take Steve's advise over mine.

The car should pull the to side with lower caster. I will edit my previous post to correct the error. Caster is frequently used to help a car go straight with less steering effort in the right lane where it wants to drift to the right. For the purposes of correcting road crown 0.25-0.5 degree is commonly used. Florida roads have a lot of crown so 0.5 is commonly used. In states's like GA or TN where there is less crown, 0.25 may work fine. I believe Steve is saying 0.3 is negligable for correcting your problem.

HTH,

Alright, so my caster seems ok?

Steve: you're posting that the alignment measurements show that there has been no compensation made for the pulling. What should I do? placo has the same model, same wheels, and same size tires and has no problem with a pulling condition. You're suggesting that a compensation should be made with the measurements. Don't you think we should figure out why it's pulling instead of trying to compensate by overloading one side or the other?

Does anyone see any problems with my alignment measurements? Anywhere? Anything?

My guess is it is your tires, not placos tires, your tires. but, what do I know.

You have either a tire problem, an alignment problem, or deficient strength in critical areas of your suspension.

The fact that you have the size tires that you have, causes the chances of you having tire related problems to be increased by quantum jumps over normal concepts of tire responsibility. I'll say it differently. If you were driving a 300E with 195/65R15 tires you could drive with crappy tires and not notice. With your tire size you need to be perfect or you are screwed.

Because of your tire size suspension deficiencies are highlighted. Based upon your alignment specs, you either have excess deflection on one side while driving, a tire irregularity, or you have a defect in one of the other alignment values I mentioned (wheel base differences or steering axis inclination).

Either that or its something else!

nono, i completely agree with you. It is definately something wrong with my car, and COULD be my tires. I was just stating the fact that the tire size shouldn't be the problem, though as you are saying it helps cause problems.

I'm going to try and do measurements between wheels and see what I come up with, thanks guys, all this is really helping.

Steve has been aligning cars for 3 decades. In the past I belvie he's said 90% of the time pulling is caused by tires. Others have said, sometimes rotating a tire from right side to left side will cause the pull to stop, or pull in the opposite direction.

HTH,

Ok we can officially axe the tire and wheel idea. I went up to the place where i get my tires from. They checked each tire, tried rotating them, and new tires. Nothing worked, it still pulled to the right.

Not to mention we already tried putting stock wheels with 225/55R16's back on the car and it still pulled a while back.

So I think we can safely axe the idea that it could be the tires or the wheels.

Whenever I'm on a flat road, and i put the wheel straight, and let go of the wheel, the wheel will slowly turn to the right, and hence, the car will go right. Now I don't know if it's the other way around, whereas the car starts to go right, forcing the wheel to turn to the right. Either way it's happening.

So exhausting :(

Major irritation, for sure.

I suspect you will have to have someone who really knows what they are doing set the car up "off spec" as Steve suggests, to counteract the pull. Something isn't quite right, and it is very likely a minor frame distortion you aren't going to be able to eliminate. If, for instance, the rear subframe sits just slightly off perpendicular, unless someone knows exactly how to handle this, you will end up with some drift. Ditto for a tiny bit of stagger in the front suspension.

If it hasn't been handled this way, you need to find an alignment shop who knows how -- just setting to factory numbers won't help.

I do know that MB, in the W108 manual, warns that you must stay on the positive side of the camber spec for the driver's front, or it will pull to the left with just the driver in the car.

My 300TE now drives with no pull at all, and is almost totally immune to cross winds -- I couldn't figure out what the funny roaring noise was until the cars around me started moving sideways -- big thunderstorm blowing up and I couldn't tell at all! So it can be done, you just have to find the right guy.

Peter

It just sucks that the whole subframe was replaced and it's hard to know if it was replaced correctly. I guess I'll have to have someone look over it...

I also did some much needed measurements tonight as Brian suggested.

Using two yardsticks, a leveler, a tape measure, a sharpie, and some paper I got these measurements:

Left Side distance between centercap on front wheel to centercap on rear wheel: 110 1/2 inches

Right side distance between centercar on front wheel to centercap on rear wheel: 110 1/2 inches

Distance from center of front left wheel to underside of fender lip: 14 inches

Distance from center of front right wheel to underside of fender lip: 14 inches

Distance from center of rear left wheel to underside of fender lip: 14+3/4 inches

Distance from center of rear right wheel to underside of fender lip: 14+3/4 inches

These measurements were as exact as I could get them. I used a level to make sure I was holding the yardsticks straight. I used two methods and got the exact same results. I marked the ground and measured between the wheels (for the wheelbase), and second I used the tape measure to go exactly from centercap from centercap. Both gave the EXACT same results.

So, it seems like the suspension is even on both sides and there is no wheel stagger.

When i center my steering wheel, turn my car off, then pull it to the left, it locks the wheel. When I let go of the locked wheel, the wheel then turns towards the right side, and is SLIGHTLY off centered and sits slightly tilted right. Is this a sign of anything?

Find out who does PROBLEM CASE alignments in your area. Or customization. You may find its the same guy. You might find some interesting vehicles at the shop, like low rider's and trucks with lift kits. All of those require special alignment settings.

If you stay with the typical shop, I'd try setting 0.5 degree castor difference between left and right side, right side with more castor. I'd also try adding some camber on the left side.

I am really trying to avoid getting a custom alignment done though, to me this is giving in to not being able to find the problem. I want to find the problem, not really compensate for it. I want to know whats wrong and it will drive me crazy if I don't figure it out.

Me too
 

My alignment measurements are almost identical to yours, my steering wheel is off center to the right, and my car tends to drift to the right. When I purchased the car, the steering wheel was off center to the left and I specifically asked the dealer to get it straight. They laughed and said that who ever did the previous alignment didn’t know what they were doing. After the dealer realigned the car, the steering wheel was slightly off center to the right side. I guess they shouldn’t have laughed about the previous alignment. The car seemed to track pretty straight, but there really has always been an issue with slight wandering to the right that could, in part, be attributed to the crown of the roads. It seems to take almost constant slight pressure on the wheel to keep the car from wandering to the right. I can play with the wheel and get it to kind of stick going straight, but very quickly I need to keep the pressure on to hold it going straight. It isn’t really hard pulling, but it is annoying to have to apply the constant pressure in pretty much the same direction all of the time. Hey my fingers start to get tired.

I had the car realigned when I added the new wheels, springs, shocks, spring pads, and K-MAC bushings. I specifically asked to be sure to get the wheel straight, but sure enough it wasn’t perfectly straight again. This latest work was done at a very fine and prestigious Porsche racing shop. The guys seem very good and they really did a great job with installing all of my new stuff, except the steering wheel is still a bit off and that very slight right wandering is still present. I also wondered about the business with the spreader bar. I figure the Porsche guys don’t know about special things required for my Benz. I am planning to try one more time at the dealer. I will be sure to tell them everything I have learned from the forums and then hope they can get it perfect.

Is it really that difficult to get the steering wheel straight? It bothers me because I want the car to be perfect and you always notice that the steering wheel is off center when you are cruising down the road. It also bothers me because sure enough the car pulls to the same side as the improperly aligned steering wheel. This makes you think it is all about the wheel. I know it really isn’t just the wheel because it did the same thing when the wheel was way off to the opposite side when I first took the car to the dealer 5 years ago.

I know I haven’t been much help, but I wanted you to know that you are not alone. My car doesn’t pull badly, but I want it to be perfect.

If it was my car: I would see if it CAN be aligned out and WHAT it may take to align it out. The person doing the alignment MAY see or identify why it is pulling. What were your alignment specs BEFORE the accident? Maybe they would surprise you! Get the other alignment specs SAI, setback and let see what those numbers are.

ksing: i feel your pain...we basically have an identical problem, though it could be caused by two different things between our two cars. It's such a pain and chore to keep the wheel straight. Keep checkin this thread, and hopefully it will help you solve your problem too.

brian: i'll call to get alignment measurements from before the accident tomorrow (dealer is closed today) and we'll see what they are.

As for right now. How do you check the subframe to see if it is off? Is it possible to take a leveler and place it on the four corners of the subframe to see if it is completely level? Or is that not an accurate way of doing it? How can you check the subframe? I get the feeling that when the subframe was replaced maybe all of the bushings were not with it...

I suspect your problem is a very slight distortion of the frame, and you will only be able to get the car to track correctly by having someone who knows what they are doing adjust the alignment to offset this distortion. Setting to factory recommendations will not fix the problem, and I don't believe you will be able to completely correct the frame.

I'd call around to the better body shops in the area, especially the ones that offer frame straightening, and see who they recommend for alignments. I'm lucky here, there is a tire shop (Firestone dealer, of all people) who has a wizard working for them. I can't believe the job he did on the TE, and it only cost $35! I'm taking all the other cars down there one at a time as money and time permit......

Don't give up, but don't depend on the dealer, either -- our local one never seems to have the same techs from month to month, as as a friend of mine said, "I'm not letting at teenager work on my $60,000 car! Period!"

Peter

Even though I've had 3 frame read-outs and each one shows the frame to be perfect to the milimeter it still has a chance of being slightly off? I've just never dealt with frames before, I really have no clue. I've just had it on 3 different frame machines and each one shows it perfect.

Anyone know the answer to my subframe questions?

There is a spec for the posistion of the boltholes in the floor, surely, to determine the position of the subframe in relation to the front end.

Did you get a actual replacement subframe, or was it used or repaired? If, like mine at the moment, it has new links on one side and not the other, it may drift until you get them replaced -- under load the torque link will allow the toe on the rear wheel to change. Mine drags just like yours, a bit less -- if I let go of the wheel, it will slowly drift right. Didn't do this before the change of links in the rear, so I know without doubt this is the issue, and I'm waiting until I get the $$$ to buy a whole set of links and subframe mounts, then will drop the subframe and do the whole shebang.

If you have bad subframe mounts, the rear subframe may be moving under the car, not much, but enough to steer funny.

Peter

The subframe was brand new, so I would hope they put new links all around...but you never know. Insurance companies are like that, if its not damaged, they don't want to replace it. The one side might have been damaged and not the other. I'm definately gonna have the subframe checked out. Thats what they originally thought was causing the pulling problem, but no one has told me so far that they looked at it. I'm gonna do some research tomorrow. Gonna get the old alignment specs (before the accident), and ask about the subframe.

Brian, Peter, Steve, Afshin, you guys have been a HUGE help, I can't thank you guys enough for the constant replies and help to try and solve this problem. Hang in there :)

After I asked twice if you had taken the tires from the right side and swapped them with the tires fromt the left side, you have said that the tire shop "CHECKED" the tires. The only way you will know for sure if it is the tires is to swap them side to side.

So I ask again, HAVE YOU SWAPPED THE TIRES FROM SIDE TO SIDE TEMPORARILY TO SEE IF THAT IS YOUR PROBLEM????????

Good luck,

I also said I rotated them in the original first post. I'm sorry if I'm using the wrong terminology, but by rotating I mean I've tried swapping the left to the right and right to the left. Sorry.

ok guys, it's been a while because my car was in the shop for a tranny leak that they do not see. I'm so mad. It leaves a puddle with a diameter of like a foot on my garage floor, i take it to the shop, and it does not leak a single drop for them. This car is really making me mad.

But back to the pulling problem...for the subframe, it was a brand new subframe. I asked, not all of the links and bushings were replaced, only damaged ones from the accident. I don't know which side was or wasn't.

psfred: how much are a complete new set of bushings and links for the subframe? I'm getting desperate...

Also, I had the tech put the car up on the rack for me to check out the rear suspension. The shop that did the original work told me that the whole right side suspension was replaced also. I saw nothing replaced on the back right suspension. Though I had the tech look at it and he saw absolutely nothing wrong with it. I also looked and couldn't find anything wrong. The bushings seemed fine, nothing seemed out of wack.

We looked at the rear left suspension, and we could see that nearly everything was replaced. I don't know if suspensions need worn-in. Is it possible that the rear left suspension just needs worn in?

ALSO, very important info here. We took the car to a custom alignment shop. The guys who were working on my car suggested it to me, they only do alignments and have been doin it for 25+ years now. So the car went down there, they looked it over and saw nothing wrong with it like every other shop. So they decided to try and do a custom alignment. I don't know the EXACT alignment measurements, I can call and get them if you guys want them. But they said they set the alignment specs so basically if you let go of the wheel you should slam into the left barrier, and it was STILL pulling to the right. They did two custom alignments which would make any normal car hit the left barrier and it would still go to the right!@#(!*@!# I'm gonna go crazy.

help :( Thanks guys.

So they replaced the subframe and put back the old links on the right side but new ones on the left? Weaker parts side to side could cause you some problems when the suspension is loaded as going down the road at speed. There is nothing to "wear in" in the suspension. The parts are supposed to be tightened with the axle half shafts horizontal or the weight of the car on the suspension so they are tightened in their neutral/natural position where they will spend most of their time.

Worn bushings will respond significantly different than a new bushing, I'm not sure if this is the problem but it definitely makes sense to have everything the same if you want it right.

Regarding the tranny, if you honestly saw 1Ft Dia of tranny fluid under your car I'm not surprised the dealer couldn't duplicate it, it's probably already empty! Did they repair the seal?

On another note, put up a post in the Good MB Shops and ask if there are any good PM's in your area, sounds like the dealers are useless out there.

Do you have the printout from the last two alignments to determine what they changed?

One last thing to check although I'm not sure how much of a difference it will make. Check your spring pads to determine if they are the same on both sides. Stock pads have 4 bumps on the front and 3 in the rear.

I don't know exactly what links were kept and which links were replaced. I'm trying to get ahold of the tech who did the subframe. I will post more details later about it.

As for the bushings. I'm gonna take some pictures tonight for you guys of the rear left and right suspension. The rear left side got all new suspension pieces with new bushings. The right side has the old suspension pieces and old bushings. Should this make a difference enough to make it pull like this? If it's any difference i'll just replace the bushings for the heck of it. If the suspension pieces need replaced with it.....i'll think about replacing them. I've already put a lot of money in to trying to find this problem.

Thanks for the suggestion about the spring pads, I will check them around 2pm est time and post later on about them. I have to get the car back from the tranny shop.

Stay tuned guys :) If i lived by you guys i'd take you out to dinner for all the help... :P

Ok I just talked to the guy who did all of the original work on the car. He said that NOTHING was replaced on the right side as far as suspension, bushings, and subframe links. So the left subframe links were replaced but not the right.

Which side links did you get replaced psfred? I'm really gonna have to look in to this right side more...it's kind of dissapointing that the major impact was my rear right side and nothing was replaced back there other than body damage.

I'm going back to the orignal guy tomorrow and we're going to look over things.

I would replace everything on the right side that was replaced on the left side. Don't overlook the four mounts that attach the subframe to the frame floor. (I am referring to busings and mounts).

SO much was replaced on the left side, i'd be looking at around $1,000 to replace everything on the right side the same.

I know close to nothing about subframes, I'm afraid that my observations of the subframe would get us no where. I'd look at it and scratch my head. I'm going to have the guy tomorrow re-look it over.

What is the "knuckle"? On my insurance sheets i have LT Knuckle: $625 replaced. I'd be ok replacing some things on the right side. But I don't think I have $625 to replace the right knuckle if there is one.

I second Brian's recommendation. Only changing one side of the bushings is equivalent to changing one shock, the old parts will respond differently due to age/wear. Good luck.

The knuckle is part of the front suspension. It has a spindle for the hub to ride on. It attaches to the suspension at the back with the strut and the bottom with the ball joint. A steering arm and tie rod connect to it for steering and the brake carrier attaches to it for supporting the brake caliper. For most W124's, I believe the part is aobut $220. Either the 500E is WAY more expensive, they are overcharging an extreme amount, or that's labor to install or both!

HTH,

So you guys seriously think I should replace EVERYTHING on the right side that was replaced on the left side?

Or will just replacing the bushings be good enough?

George,

I have one concern here, with all due respect to you and everyone is trying to help you .... what is broken has not been determined.

What if it isn't "everything on the right side"? What next? I am trying to be supportive here, not critical. You have been through a lot but determining why your car is pulling is really the work here. Then replacing what is needed is a no-brainer.

My 2 cents. Hang in there,

Haasman

Just the wearable parts - links, mounts.

In particular the torque, thrust, camber, & tie rod links. These go from the subframe to the wheel carrier.

If you have a new subframe then all four mounts that bolt it to the frame floor should be new. If it was removed and later reinstalled then the mounts should all either be old or be new.

i completely hear you out haasman, and i complete agree with you

we have to narrow it down somehow, I just wish I knew more about the subframe and all of the links...

I want to jack up the right rear end of the car. What's the best way to do this? I know there is the jack that comes with that car that fits in to the tubing, and then there is the jackstand support right next to it, that little circular spot. I usually just take my floor jack and jack the side up on the jackstand support to take my wheels off when I need to. But then where can I put the jackstand safely? How do you guys jack up the rear end on a W124?

You can jack up the rear by placing your jack under the differential. Make sure it is centered on the differential before proceeding. Be sure to place chocks on the front wheels.

George-

Two additonal questions:

1). You had said "It's squeeking around the front left fender area" ... have you figured out what that is? I am wondering what that is?

As a sidebar- the 300E developed two weird things at the same time: A slight knocking from the right front going into driveways and a pulling to the right. It turned out to be a broken front swaybar link.

2). Did you look for uneven brake pad wear? I am suggestioning that a sticking caliper or weird ABS/traction control issue.

You might want to drive the car and then touch each wheel at the same area and see if say the right front is hotter than the left front, same again for the rears.

Another question: Does your emergency brake work the same as before?

Haasman

Floor jack with a block of wood under the differential, then place two jack stands under the rubber pads below the jack points, then release the floor jack slowly making sure the rubber pads are even on the jack stands.

I agree with haasman about finding out what's wrong without throwing parts at it, but I'm trying to help you with your approach as best I can.

HTH,

Okay, time to answer some questions and ask some questions...

-------
1). You had said "It's squeeking around the front left fender area" ... have you figured out what that is? I am wondering what that is?
-------
I fortunately got that off my mind yesterday. It was firewall rubbing up against an engine mount. Cleared some space and I havn't heard it since. :)

-------
2). Did you look for uneven brake pad wear? I am suggestioning that a sticking caliper or weird ABS/traction control issue.
-------
I havn't yet just because all of the break pads were replaced after the accident. The only reason I would say that it's not a sticking caliper is the fact that if I press on my brakes, it still pulls to the right. If it was a sticking caliper it shouldn't still pull to the right like that, from what I understand.

--------
Another question: Does your emergency brake work the same as before?
--------
It works the same as before, I specifically had it looked at too, it seemed to be ok.

--------
I agree with haasman about finding out what's wrong without throwing parts at it, but I'm trying to help you with your approach as best I can.
---------
I completely understand, any help with this what so ever, suggestions, ideas, is completely open. The problem is so vague that it could be so many number of things. Even the slightest smallest idea of what it could be helps. You've been a huge help.

Is 4,000lbs floor jacks and jack stands ok on the car? My dad already has 4,000lbs, i'm not sure what you're supposed to use on W124. What do you guys use? 2ton or 3ton?

The entire car weights less than 4000 lbs so you're fine.

Check the links on the left side -- if any of the steel "center" are offset to one side, you are going to have different alignment on that side, possibly causing the trouble.

I personally would replace the links that were replaced on the right side on the left, and would replace the spring link bushings also if they were done on the right side.

Also, check ride height on the rear, with and without someone in the driver's seat. If you have a damaged spring and the ride heights is significantly different side to side, you will have different camber on the rear. This can cause the car to pull, too.

The fun part is that with worn link bushings, the alignment may be fine standing still, but change under load.

Peter

peter: i think you got the sides mixed up, but I get what you're saying

not to sound like an idiot, but where are the links I am looking for? Does anyone have a picture of them?

I'm not going to do any of the work to the links because I am completely unexperienced with them. I just want to learn this stuff and take a look at it myself.

Which links should I check and where are they located? Pictures or drawings would help a bunch. The more knowledge the better ;)

Sorry I don't have any pictures. Once the car is securely resting on the jack stands, get under the car and look at the differential. Notice the two bolts that bolt it into the subframe. Follow the axle half shafts out of the differential into back side of the wheel carriers. Notice the lower control arm (below the axle shaft) that connects to the subframe and to the wheel carrier. Then notice the other links that go betweent the subframe and the wheel carrier. The one on top of the axle shaft is the camber strut. The other three are the torque arm (the shortest, widest one), the thrust arm (the longer thinner one) and the tie rod (the one with an eccentric cam bolt at the subframe and a ball joint (rubber boot) at the wheel carrier).

HTH,

It's easy to see all the rear suspension links if you jack up the rear and pull the wheels off.

The "links" are actually heavy gauge steel stampings with a steel sleeve vulcanized into a bushing on each end (except the tie rod, which has a cylindrical bushing on the inner end and a tie rod end on the outer). Only the tie rod is adjustable, the others are all fixed length.

The rubber gets displaced with age -- tends to get thinner on the side where the pressure is -- and will eventually wear out, leaving the links "loose". This allows all sorts of motion to show up at the wheel carrier (the part the wheel bolts to), and funny steering.

Does the rear feel "tight" while driving, or does it feel like the body is moving slightly on the frame when you make turns? If it feels sloppy, for sure you have some tired links.

The Spring link, the one on the bottom, has a rubber bushing on both ends.

Peter

On another thread, Chris W. has posted what these Links look like. These are for a standard 124 but similiar to your car.

Haasman

thanks so much guys, I understand now what the links are. I've seen them before but never knew the names of everything. It's good to get to know everything. I'm going to jack the car up tonight, I have my jack and stands. I'm also gonna bring my digital camera down incase I see anything bent, dented, twisted...any of that.

Should I clean the parts off and everything with just water? It's hard to see dents and twists when they're completely covered with brake dust and dirt :P

Thanks for "linking" (no pun intended) me to those pictures, seeing them helps a lot. Stay posted for some pictures and some results.

What sucks is after the accident, like 5-6 metal pieces broke off the car onto the street. Some a-hole came and threw them on my trunk (scratching it, the guy responsible for the accident), but I was so mad at the time that i threw them back off the trunk onto the ground and never put them in to the car. They were most likely from my rear bumper, they weren't huge, but could have helped check to see if they were properly replaced. Oh well :(

Thanks tons guys!!

Alright guys, unfortunately I got really busy with work these past 2 days and didn't get to jack the car up yet. But I noticed that the pulling is starting to lessen...

it isn't by much at all, but it's not as bad as when I first got the car back. I'm starting to think its the new links and bushings on the rear left side.

The rear right has the 11 year old links and bushings (as far as I know), is this enough to make this car pull? Not to mention a lot of that impact was on the rear right side. A lot of you guys are suggesting to replace the rear right links, and I think I might want to. Considering the rear left side has completely new links and bushings, it almost seems right to do the right side also. Partially in hope that it will alleviate this pulling...and because if I'm going to eventually need it done i'd rather do it now and have them wear evenly.

If you guys had your rear left side links replaced, would you go ahead and do the right also? Regardless if there was a pull or not...

Looking up the links, I get:

1. Thrust arm --------> Thrust arm ----------> $37.00
2. Tie rod -----------> Control arm strut ---> $50.26
3. Torque strut ------> Control Arm Stay ----> $24.50
4. Camber strut ------> Camber strut --------> $50.80
5. Spring Link -------> Lower Control Arm -------> $8.39
Grand Total: $170.95

but for some items like the thrust arm it says:
Lower front position. On models prior to listed chassis cut-offs or when replacing earlier version (1) 210 350 45 06 control arm repair kit and (1) 210 352 00 43 sleeve are required per side.

is it suggesting i need the repair kit and new sleeve for it? What about bushings too?

Let me know what you guys think, if this is a good idea, or if i'm getting desperate and tired...

and to be honest with you peter, i'm really not sure how the rear end feels, if it feels loose or tight. I'm really not sure how both are supposed to feel, I guess when I take it out tomorrow i'll take it around some bends and see if i can feel the car shift?

it's almost impossible to tell how worn the links are until you take them off. they are normally replaced in pairs and unless these are special ones for the 500E they are fairly inexpensive anyway. it should take your mechanic all of 20 minutes to replace...

Okay after re-looking over my rear left suspension pieces, here is what i'm noticing:

LT Thrust arm $48
LT Control Arm $72
LT Tie rod assy $69
LT Camber kit hardware kit $5
LT Lower cover $8.25
LT Control Arm bushing kit $9.75
LT Lateral rod hardware kit $7
LT Thrust arm hardware kit $15
LT Lateral rod $35.50
LT Link to control arm $11
LT Torsion bar bracket $3.90

So I see the thrust arm was replaced, the tie rod was replaced, is the "LT Control Arm $72" the Torque Strut? For $72 it couldn't be what MB calls the "Control Arm" for $240 can it? If it's not the Torque Strut, does it look to you guys like its not on this list? Also, I don't see camber strut anywhere on the insurance pages...it looks like they only got new bolts or something for it.

I have no work to do tomorrow, it sounds like a good time to jack the rear end up. But I want to make sure I do this right. I've never lifted to whole rear end up at once, I've only done left side or right side just to remove wheels. I understand where I'm supposed to place the jack stands once the car has been raised. But as for where I put the floor jack itself...is this the proper place:

http://users.adelphia.net/~nychis/differential.jpg

i merely held the camera under my car to get that picture. let me know guys, thanks!

I lift mine my jacking on the differential where you indicated.

I also have a slight drag to the right on the 300D, just enough to irritate, from replacing the links on one side and not the other (no alignment done yet).

Peter

anyone know the answer to the links question? It seems like there are 3 names for every link...

George,

I grabbed the following from this site, there a lot of us that get confused with the different names:

"In all, there are five links in the multilink suspension: torque, thrust, camber, tie rod, and lower control arm. The lower control arm is a wide piece that goes between the subframe and the bottom of the wheel carrier. The camber arm goes between the subframe and the top of the wheel carrier. The tie rod is on the front side - the side in the wheel carrier has a ball joint, the side on the subframe is a bushing. The shorter, thicker link is the torque arm which mounts higher than the longer, thinner thrust arm."

Also-

MB Name--------------------------->FastLane name
---------------------------------------------------------------

1. Thrust arm ---------------------> Thrust arm
2. Tie rod -------------------------> Control arm strut
3. Torque strut -------------------> Control Arm Stay
4. Camber strut ------------------> Camber strut
4. Spring Link ---------------------> Sway bar link

Hope this helps,

Haasman

Ok I only read the first couple posts, pardon me if this has been said:

But ever thought that maybe bekkers sent you some cheezy poof wheels? Or that maybe the tires are no good?