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  #31  
Old 09-23-2004, 10:22 PM
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Location: COASATAL NORTH CAROLINA
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Reply to speedy 300D Turbo

Thanks for your comment about bulb wattage. I checked my dealer and he specifies that he only uses the correct German bulbs with the proper wattage, other "look alike" bulbs may have higher wattage and cause problems. I compared the brightness of a new bulb with the remaining old one and the amount of illumination is the same. I guess I could go and pull one out and check the resistance of an old and a new one as a comparison. I notice one of the threads mentioned using a Sylvania 194 bulb. If I get a chance I'll check one of those for specified wattage and will post any results.
The old bulbs had to be original since I had never changed one in this '93 car before.
Roy

'82 SL
'83 240D
'93 300TE 4Matic

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  #32  
Old 09-25-2004, 08:46 PM
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dial light bulbs...

We had some earlier comments about wattage on bulbs for the dial lights. Someone said they used a Sylvania 194 bulb as a replacement. Someone else said that 5 watt bulbs would melt the prism. So today I had occasion to check the wattage on the Sylvania 194 bulbs and they are 3.78 watts, which is 25% less than the 5 watt bulbs that apparently cause trouble. I had already installed the replacement bulbs from my supplier and I did not want to pull the panel out again so I don't really know what I was furnished except that they look like the original, in brightness, and they also look like the lights in the other two MB cars. So I assume I'm OK. I'd go for the Sylvania bulbs if correct wattage German ones are not readily available. Roy

'82SL
'83 240D
'93 300TE 4Matic
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  #33  
Old 09-26-2004, 02:55 AM
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The actual correct bulb is Sylvania 2821, also known as W3W. They look identical to the 194 bulbs.
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  #34  
Old 09-26-2004, 08:12 AM
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Thank you for the superb guide Chris.W , i should of find this forum when i needed. Few days ago i was trying to remove the panel an as a result big circular plug came out from where all the wires go into the plug , so they all mix and match at the moment,when i use the selector brake light, lights off and on , things like that , its really messed up , couldnt find any mercedes in the scrap yard to check the colour combination....

Does any one know where i can find a template or a chart showing the right combination pls...
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  #35  
Old 11-21-2004, 06:25 PM
orvals
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Hello all...

Great post...does anybody know the procedure for a 98 E320. One of the dash lights burned out and I need to replace it. Also, any info on getting those LED's?

Thanks
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  #36  
Old 11-22-2004, 10:02 AM
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yal yal is offline
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This is a great how to! Thanks I have something moving about back there, I suspect its my aftermarket alarm CPU and was a little hesistant to open her up. Thanks for the pics!
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  #37  
Old 11-26-2004, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orvals
Great post...does anybody know the procedure for a 98 E320. One of the dash lights burned out and I need to replace it.
Yes, the procedure is basically the same...I just did this a few months ago on my '98 E320 wagon to replace the bulb behind the digital clock. I was actually pleasantly surprised how easy it was to do the job! I bought the two tools (along with the radio removal tools) for about $30.

Regards,
Steve
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  #38  
Old 11-26-2004, 09:43 PM
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while everybody is back there, check that miserible mechanical dimmer light rheostat. I can't believe that MB is using the same one from ancient times. I had to replace the one on my 83 300d without disconnecting anything. I did it it was a real bear tho. If your car is >10 years, put a new one in...
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  #39  
Old 11-27-2004, 02:46 PM
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Nice pictorial. Although, I've read that it is highly recommended to disconnect the speedo cable at the tranny first. I guess if you're really anal, you can do it this way as I did. Any stretching of the speedo cable will make it wobble under load.
There are other ways to get the cluster out. Removing the center vent works well, but only if the screw on the left side of the vent is not in place. Can't remove that screw with the cluster in place, Catch-22.
Mine is now in a baggie in the glovebox, don't need it to hold the vent in.
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  #40  
Old 11-27-2004, 04:30 PM
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Speedometer Repair

One of the best features of this site is the huge amount of "been there, done thats" .... by using the SEARCH feature and a key words, it is amazing what you will find.

Regarding speedo repairs, I used speedo and repair and found lots and lots of postings. Have a look: Speedo Repair

Haasman
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  #41  
Old 12-03-2004, 03:48 PM
injector
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Thumbs up Instrument Panel Removal

Many thanks for all the work you put into the descritions and photos. Just completed speedometer cable lubrication and two bulb replacements. There should be an easier way to get the panel out. It took some very hard pulling to get it to come out. Hint: I pulled on the driver's side and it just pulled out. My cruise control is STILL jerky. So, apparently that wasn't the problem. Looks like amplifier time. I'll check it out next week. Thanks again for information.
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  #42  
Old 12-06-2004, 04:32 PM
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MK I hands

Why not just reach in from behind the cluster from undeneath using your hands? No tools where needed on my C-class to push the instruments out
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  #43  
Old 12-07-2004, 01:25 AM
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One note about the led wedge base bulbs. they don;t illuminate properly. The standard bulb illuminates all around th ebulb, and the led's typically only illuminate out fromt he top half of the bulb, thus leaving the cluster dim.

Believe me, I have tried many different bulbs, and the ones I liked the best for color, were the xenon charged ones, but I took them out at one time to use them in my city lights in my euros.

I am working on making up some custom led's for the cluster lgihting, I am not sure how I am going to do it just yet, probably some drilling and placing them in from the top, or I am going to make up some custom ones usingthe factory bulb bases for the cluster lighting with several led's.

Either way, great write up. I have had my cluser out so many times, I can just pull one side and wiggle it out the rest of the way.

Alon
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  #44  
Old 12-12-2004, 12:23 AM
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I have been working on replacing the illumination for the ACC controls and the shift on the console - This requires removing teh cover plate for teh ACC controls in order to expose teh light harness (spider) which is behind the ACC controls. No problems here - just finding suitable bulbs - they should be Osram Silvania 2721 - Dealer gave me wrong ones and car parts places don't have them around here.

Decided to remove cluster and replace bulbs there too. There are actually three of teh 3W bulbs - two at to at one in lower RH corner looking at cluster from it's back side. Thes eshould not be a problem - plastic reflectors are still nice and clean and I just need three new bulbs - Osram Sylvani 2821,s.

While I have cluster out, I want to replace the 8 small bulbs - these seem to be 2721,s (1.2watt). 6 of these are mounted in plastic sockets that protrude out the back of the cluster. The bulbs don't just pull out - the wire connectors on the bulb bases are hooked around metal pieces inside the black plastic sockets. Presumably these are supplied as a unit? Has anyone replaced these? Where do I get them? I suppose MB dealer will have them, but do these have a different part number?

I took the rheostat apart _ it was completely clean - Should have left it because it is a little difficult to get it back together tight (have to bend the tabs a bit.)

Hopefully get all this back together once I get proper bulbs.

The photos were a great help. Thanks!

Graham
1985 300D
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  #45  
Old 12-18-2004, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brookspw
As someone mentioned, I need instructions on fixing my TRIP ODOMETER ONLY. My regular odo works fine, but the trip odo clicks at 99.9 as I've seen mentioned.

While I am replacing the bulbs (one is out) I want to fix the trip odo, too.

What a super original post!
I have the same problem - since last week, the speedo & odometer work fine but the trip odometer can't be brought to zero from the button, and clicks all the time

~Nautilus

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